For the last couple of weeks or so we have been “enjoying” unusually hot and humid weather interspersed by some unusually violent and damaging thunderstorms which have, however, failed to clear the air. This sort of weather calls for salads and barbecues. It is tempting to open pinks but all except the Bandol below have proved no more than blandly pleasant. Some of the wines opened with barbecued meats and one of the whites would, I am sure, have been much more enjoyable in cooler circumstances. Part of the problem may have been the wines getting to warm in spite of a spell in the refrigerator and the use of an earthenware cooler and even cooling bracelets during the meal. The wines which worked best were those with fresh fruit, good acidity and minerality. Wines seeking to make an important statement fell down.
Reds which worked included Saumur-Champigny 2008 – Domaine des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain) – Alc. 12.5% - which was delightfully moreish showing medium body and typical Champigny tangy and earthy fruit with lively/crisp acidity and decent tannic structure; 15.5/20++.
Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2004 – Charles Joguet – Alc.12.5% was more elegant but slightly lighter in body with pencil shaving notes in its aromas and more refined mineral and fruit with plenty of lively acidity and decent tannic structure; 16/20.
Presence of more marked tannins was not a barrier as shown by Irouléguy “Gorri d’Ansa” 2006 (€9), tank aged, with complex aromas, good acidity, tannic structure and lively tangy dark fruit - 15.5/20++ - and by Cahors Solis 2004 – Matthieu Cosse – Alc.13% - (€8 approx) – 85% Malbec, 10% Merlot, 5% Tannat – with its savoury fruit with a marked wet leather tang and touches of tar and liquorice together with lively acidity and firm tannins; 16/20.
The wines of the fortnight were both white.
Vouvray Les Argiles 2005 – François Chidaine – Alc. 14% was just off dry and quite rich but was perfectly balanced with wax, white flower, quince and some tropical fruit aromas, flinty minerals and mouth-watering acidity; 17/20.
Jurançon sec Cuvée Marie 2005 – Charles Hours – Alc.14% - (€11 for 2007), made from Gros and Petit Manseng with Courbu; its aromas show white fruit (a lot of pineapple), a lot of honey and abundant minerals; the nose could presage a sweet wine but the palate turned out to be dry, medium bodied, harmonious (with no alcohol burn), quite aromatic with plenty of lively/crisp acidity yet with caressing fruit and mouth-feel and good length but perhaps slightly less integrated than my previous bottle; 16.5/20++.
This rosé from an unfamiliar estate and bought from the inauspicious source of the local Carrefour hypermarket was also very good. Bandol 2009 – Domaine de Frégate – Alc. 13%, made from Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, was bone dry and showed some refined fruit, lively acidity and firm tannic structure (from Mourvèdre?) on the finish; 15.5/20+++.
The following wines did, however, disappoint in the circumstances and I hesitate to rate them.
Paired with "vitello tonnato" Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc 1998 – Château de Beaucastel – Alc. 13.5%, made from 80% Roussanne, 15% Grenache and 5% others, showed an open and expressive nose and an ample, deep, rich and complex palate with tropical fruit, some nuts and good mouth-fill with the nuttiness veering more in the sherry direction than I remember from a bottle (rated 17/20) which I tasted about a year ago. However the wine palled and we had difficulty in finishing the bottle.
Chinon Coteaux de Noiré 2003 – Philippe Alliet – Alc. 13% was rich in fruit and quite full in body but its tannins seemed bitter and dry towards the finish and it too palled. Maybe 2003 is partly to blame.
Normally I am sure that I would have liked a lot Chianti Classico 2001 Vignamaggio 1404-2004 600 – Villa Vignamaggio – Alc. 13%, which was made to celebrate the 600th anniversary of this beautiful estate. It showed quite rich fruit and medium/full body and secondary notes of fine oil, old books and forest floor together with decent acidity, but the overall effect on a warm evening was heavier and less lively than I like from Chianti.