WTN: “Monday Night Bouteille” in May

Another Monday night BYO dinner at the Carlton, this time on 10 May 2010. Topic was Pinot Noir. Handed in to and served blind by the restaurant staff, as always.

Hansruedi Adank Fläscher Pinot Noir Barrique 2004
Thanks to Pascal. Medium-full, glossy ruby-black. White pepper, a touch of petrol. Quite stuffed and full-bodied, with (nice in this case!) warming alcohol. Almost viscous. Mature yet fresh. Soft shalloty metal note. Quite minerally. Softly grassy herbs. Rounded-off tannin. Long. Beautiful wine, positive surprise of the night, if a bit simple compared to the 1997 Gantenbein. Guessed eastern Swiss, maybe 3- to 5-years-old. Rating: 90+/91-?

Hubert Lignier Chambolle-Musigny 1998
Thanks to Nick. Lightly murky ruby-red with a touch of raspberry-red and faint pink-orange at the rim. Animal and a bit soapy. Tiny medicinal-herbaceous streak here. Worn-out fruit. Coriander and thyme. Touch of marzipan. Bit acidic and short. A bit alcoholic if only because it is light. Soft rose-hip to the tannin. Tasted a bit like an oxidative Barolo, Rainer said. People guessed 1998 or 2004 Burgundy, soon decided it was still a bit too sweet for 1998, and wondered if it might be a 2000. Cleaner, more cedar, maltier, sweatier, sweeter and rounder with airing. Drink up! Rating: 84-?

Daniel & Martha Gantenbein Fläscher Blauburgunder 1997
Contribution of mine. Same bottling now referred to (and labelled) as Gantenbein’s Pinot Noir – at that time, only half of the Wädenswil clones had been replanted with ones from Burgundy (possible one must assume thanks to the climate change), the other half was still in production (and one can tell). Needs decanting as it contains sediment. A bit more garnet-ruby, faint watery orange at the rim. Great ginger and complex fruit on the nose. Very minerally on the palate, strong steel, shallot and onion, some nutty oak. Very concentrated and firm, almost salty extract. Not too long at first, but increasingly longer with airing. Lightly roasted fruit, peppery, some dried tomato, petrolly-intense tarragon, touch of olive, faint dried mace, freshly fallen leaves, wet forest floor. Touches of caramel and Crème Brûlée. Rainer wondered if it was a 1999 Burgundy (and he meant something good, such as, again, Hubert Lignier). Only bottle to be drained that night, no wonder: my last and one of the finest bottles of this wine I have had, a fitting swan song. Rating: ~94

Domaine des Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles 2002
Thanks to Lukas. From a yield of 38 hl/ha. Relatively glossy medium ruby-black, watery orange at the rim. Harmonious on the nose, faintly sweaty. Round, smooth, not too weighty, could also be longer and fruitier. Bit high-acid. Faint chamomile tea, or as Rainer suggested, a combination of anise and eucalyptus? Faint bitter almond. Some iron. Pretty oak. Relatively smooth. Again a bit Piedmontese Nebbiolo like in character. Guessed sweaty Gevrey, but 2000 as the vintage. No doubt closed, not the right moment to pull corks. I will admit I have so far been underwhelmed with this producer’s wines – this is one of the better ones I have had. Rating: 86+/87(+?)

Melville Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir Carrie’s 2008
Thanks to Rainer, who bought this at the winery when on vacation there with his girlfriend. From a 4.9 acres vineyard, 396 cases produced. A touch of purple to the ruby, black hue. Youthfully sweet and extracted vin de paille style, more Grenache- or Zinfandel- than Pinot Noir like, the thickness of cranberry juice. Liqueur-like 14.9% alcohol. Marzipan oak (claimed to be “neutral” on the website). Sizeable, modern-styled, intense but short. Quite tannic (30% stem inclusion). More complex with airing, but hotter with alcohol then, too, as well as more tightly tannic (the latter is all right with me in a young wine, although as Burgundy lovers know, Pinot Noir does not need tannin to age well). Could not help teasing Rainer: “Do you have any excuse/What the heck were you thinking [= bringing a wine like this along when you knew I would be here]?” I will admit I can see this is “impressive” or maybe even “fun” (is it, really?!) once one bites the bullet and accepts it has little to do with what a Burgundy lover expects from Pinot Noir (i.e. terroir expression, subtlety and finesse). Rating: 87+/88-?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

[David M. Bueker]

I was on the Melville list for a couple of years. I was offered the single vineyard Pinot Noirs & bought a few. I dropped off the list almost immediately after tasting one. They do make a very nice unoaked (really!) Chardonnay, but virtually all of their other wines are in the mold you experienced.

Daniel & Martha Gantenbein Fläscher Blauburgunder 1997
Contribution of mine. Same bottling now referred to (and labelled) as Gantenbein’s Pinot Noir – at that time, only half of the Wädenswil clones had been replanted with ones from Burgundy (possible one must assume thanks to the climate change), the other half was still in production (and one can tell).

Thank you for the notes. I´ve been fortunate enough to have tasted a bottle of Gantenbein but once. I´m looking forward to the next. I´m curious as to whether or not you know how much Wädenswil is still in the ground in Fläsch (and elsewhere in Switzerland.) The clone is still relied upon heavily by many of the founding Oregon properties and is often credited for adding dimension and style points to the better wines from these producers. Is it falling out of favor to the home team in Switzerland?

Cheers,
Bill

Daniel & Martha Gantenbein Fläscher Blauburgunder 1997
Contribution of mine. Same bottling now referred to (and labelled) as Gantenbein’s Pinot Noir – at that time, only half of the Wädenswil clones had been replanted with ones from Burgundy (possible one must assume thanks to the climate change), the other half was still in production (and one can tell).

Thank you for the notes. I´ve been fortunate enough to have tasted a bottle of Gantenbein but once. I´m looking forward to the next. I´m curious as to whether or not you know how much Wädenswil is still in the ground in Fläsch (and elsewhere in Switzerland.) The clone is still relied upon heavily by many of the founding Oregon properties and is often credited for adding dimension and style points to the better wines from these producers. Is it falling out of favor to the home team in Switzerland?

Cheers,
Bill

I'm unable to answer this question more generally. All I know is that Gantenbein, who is the primus inter pares in the region, has convinced (some) other top vintners such as the Studachs to replant their vineyards with Burgundy clones. It is true that the Wädenswil clone adds something - among other it overemphasizes that unique metallic streak in the local Pinots to an extent that makes the older generation who go so used to it (my mother, for example) miss its absence in wines (almost) exclusively made with Burgundy clones. Apart from the specific flavour profile that not everyone likes, my guess is that the Wädenswil clone once was a necessity, and is now becoming climatically obsolete. But like I said, I'm really unable to answer your question - I'll forward it to Daniel and Martha (or ask him next time I see him).

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

Thank you.

Cheers,
Bill