OK, a confession. I'm well aware that there are some good and great wines coming out of Greece, but my experience is extremely limited. If I go to a good Greek restaurant I'll order one, but my knowledge of producers is extremely limited, and if asked to name grapes I'd be stuck after Xenomavro, Assyrtiko, and St George. So I was pretty excited when Mark invited me to join a crew tasting the wines of Estate Gerovassiliou at Milos last night.
About 20 people, in an enclosed private room overlooking the attractive dining room (which was packed on a Tuesday night). Evangelos Gerovassiliou was there to present his wines, accompanied by his wife and daughters. An informative and delicious meal, with Milos proving why it is considered one of the absolute top seafood restaurants in New York. Evangelos (who studied and worked with Emile Peynaud) was introduced, and gave a quick history of the winery (after studying at the Universite of Bordeaux, he returned to Greece, planted new vineyards, and started the winery in mid-80s).
After a refreshing glass of water (it was steamy outside), we had a glass of a 2008 Gerovassiliou white, a blend of Malagousia and Assyrtiko. Melon, herbs, floral, very nice though for my tastes could use a bit more acidity. B
As we sat, some trays of beautiful oysters arrived, with a rather delicate mignonette. There was also some toasted bread with fantastic olive oil. The first course followed, great presentations of salmon sashimi, white fish sashimi (I didn't catch the name of the fish, Portugese I believe, but fantastic and great looking- once sliced they "recreated" body and presented between tail and head), and Tunisan octopus.
2008 Gerovassiliou Malagousia
(apparently a variety that Mr. Gerovassiliou saved from extinction)/ Floral, round fruit, some mineral on finish. Good length. B
2008 Biblia Chora "Areti"
Assyrtiko. Biblia Chora is a winery where Mr. Gerovassiliou is a partner. Crisp and sharp, citrusy, less depth than the Malagousia but clean and an attractive food wine. B
Next course included a tomato/feta/cuke salad (my first truly great tomato of the year), calamari, and maybe the best crab cake (well, crab ball) I've ever tasted.
2008 Gerovassiliou Viognier
I think others liked a bit more than I did. I'm just not a big Viognier fan- this was tropical, soft, floral, a little oak- some loved but didn't ring my bells. B-
2008 Biblia Chora "Ovilos"
A blend of Assyrtiko and Semillon, I believe barrel fermented and aged in oak. I wouldn't have predicted this as my WOTN, but it was. Big, rich, like a top tier white Bordeaux decided to retire to Greeece. Some oak, but on top of a classy balanced base. A-'
Next course, lavraki (aka branzino) baked in a salt crust. They paraded it around before cracking it open, I have to say one of the best baked white fish dishes I've ever tasted (served with asparagus)
2008 Gerovassiliou Chardonnay
Big, ripe, a little hot- I thought clumsy and oaky next to its flightmates, but maybe just needs time. But for me this night, B-/C+
2006 Gerovassiliou Chardonnay
I liked this much better. Less apparent alcohol, some oak but integrated, more toast and butterscotch than vanilla. Somewhat exotic nose, that Craig compares to Coche Drury. Very nice, my fave of the flight (each wine had a champion). A-/B+
2003 Gerovassiliou Chardonnay
I'm always a bit skeptical of 2003 European whites, but this was really nice. A little heat showing, but oak is well integrated and the fruit is still vibrant. Impressive showing. B+
Next up prime Ribeye, roasted vegetables, and serious fries
2001 Gerovassiliou Estate Red
Syrah with a little Merlot and Grenache. Ripe attractive nose with a little VA, red fruits, smoked meat, earth, oak. On the palate there's a sharp/prickly note that detracts a bit, B
2000 Gerovassiliou Estate Red
Initially my least favorite of the 3, showing oaky and soft, but this really improved with air. Dark berries, damp earth, smoke. Medium bodied. B/B+
1996 Gerovassiliou Estate Red
Soft, meaty, with earth and cedar. Fully mature, but not tired. B/B+
Some nice Greek cheeses, with
2005 Gerovassiliou "Avaton"
Limnio/Mavroudi/Mavrotragano. My favorite red- rich dark fruit, pepper, herbs, long and deep. B+/A-
2005 Katsaros Estate Red
Cabernet/Merlot. Perfectly acceptable New World styled blend, dominated by oak and red fruit, low acids, some tannins. B-
What a fun night. Thanks to Mark Golodetz and Anne Riives who organized, the Gerovassiliou family for hosting, the owners and staff of Milos for an extraordinary evening, and the participants for great conversation. When I described the meal I had to promise Betsy I'd take her to Milos soon. I'd happily taste any of these wines, and am actively looking for several. While I was especially happy to taste some native grapes, I'll admit some of the imports were impressive.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.