Two California Syrahs

2004 Oberschulte "Monte Rosso" Syrah. From the grand cru Sonoma Valley vineyard. Massive fruit, massive extraction, noticeable alcohol. Quite jammy in character, with good spicyness. Not really to my style... Meh.

2006 Casaeda Sonoma Coast Syrah. Second label of the Karen Cullen winery. Much more my style! Still plenty of fruit and a bit of heat, but much meatier and more savory. Wonderful acidity and freshness. Very nice wine!

If you can talk yourself into the idea that the Syrah's heat is really black pepper, it'll make your life a lot slurpier.

John

Been having the same problem with CA Syrahs. Don't mind the extraction, spice, and pepper, but I do like some semblance of balance. Methinks the ph may be too high in many cases, if it wernt so the alcohol would not be so noticeble.

I know neither of these producers, but it sounds like they (as is the case with many others) are intent on repeating the flaws of many Australian producers, hoping the buying public will mistake intensity and sweetness for quality. Just as hard to find balance there, especially post 2002 or so.

Well, guys...I actually did LIKE the Casaeda, although the posters on Cellartracker are correct that her regular Culler label Syrah is better.

Still...the reality is that many people loved the Oberschulte. I understand it's a bit of a "cult' wine...I just like the leaner, more acidic, red fruit side of Syrah you get in the Rhone or from producers like Peay (or Ceps, THEIR second label) or that really impressive Joseph Swan Great Oaks bottling I tried this month.

From the grand cru Sonoma Valley vineyar

And just what the hell is a "grand cru Sonoma Valley" vineyard?

From the grand cru Sonoma Valley vineyar

And just what the hell is a "grand cru Sonoma Valley" vineyard?

Maybe a vineyard formerly owned by the defunct Garnd Cru winery.....?

I'll bet it is what you think it is - advertising hype.

I make a conscious effort not to stereotype wines as needing to be in a particular mould based on the country where they are best known. I don't insist that Sangiovese made outside Italy resemble Chianti, nor that Syrah be a doppelganger for a northern Rhone, but surely a balanced wine in their own style isn't too much to ask?

Bill:

You are correct, of course. It may be unfair to expect a California wine to taste "French." I guess what I mean to say is in the case of Syrah, I generally prefer the flavor profile and character of French Syrah over the "New World" style. Not always...there are American Syrahs I love which I think show the very balance and even elegance you mention. I don't like "too much" fruit, I guess is another thing I am trying to say, and if a wine is all big jammy fruit, I don't really like it very much. Even if I can recognize a certain degree of quality, I don't prefer that style.

Interestingly enough, the comments at CellarTracker seem to parallel my comments.

I was kidding with the Grand Cru thing. I think I copied that designation from a Wine & Spirits Magazine article (which included Monte Rosso among their list of Grand Cru vineyards.