WTN: Scholium, Texier, Dujac, and more

Friday Betsy made fried chicken and turnips with potatoes (2 faves of my mom who we're worried about) and I opened the 2009 Cantalupo "Il Mimo" rosato. Fuller-styled rose, cherry and cranberry fruit, violets, shows it's Nebbioloness. B+/B

Saturday we had an apertif of the 2007 Drouhin St Veran. I've consistently loved this wine, but this bottle seems more subdued than the half-dozen or so I've tried previously. Perfectly acceptable, clean Chardonnay fruit, just for some reason seems to lack verve. Still, at $13 not bad. Slightly off bottle? B-

Main course was spiced duck breast with candied almonds over green beans. Dinner wine was the 2002 Dujac Fils et Pere Chambolle-Musigny. I love Dujac, and thought when they appeared that the negoce wines might be a way to experience without the nosebleed prices the domaine wines are fetching. But overall I've been a bit disappointed. That holds true this time- ripe red fruit, ok acidity, some wood spice, but a tad dull and not very terroir driven. B-

Sunday we went to Betsy's sister's to watch the World Cup final. In honor of the BiL's Dutch heritage, they had red cabbage, two kinds of pickled herring, Gouda, and Dutch potato rolls. I had no real preference re game, but in interest of fairness countered with figs with Cabrales, Manchego, and a bottle of the 2009 Ulacia Txakolina. Light, lemony, but short and lacking the concentration of the better Txakolinas, this reminds me of a competent 2nd tier Muscadet. At $15 not a buy again. B-/C+

After game we went home, and prepared for visit of some close friends (and their Standard poodle). We did figs with proscuitto, and they brought canapes of tofu, hoisin, and peanuts on cucumber. With the appetizers we had the NV Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut. I generally find Franciacortas poor value versus Champagne, but tried this at $20. OK, Parker rolls over very ripe apples, a hint of RS, but not very complex and to me not a good value. B-

Dinner on patio was lamb chops in a yogurt/mint/cardoman marinade, orzo salad, grilled eggplant, and green salad. We tried a couple of reds:

2005 Scholium Project "Babylon Tenbrink Vineyard"
I've had Scholium whites before, this was my first red. Oswaldo gave to me after not caring for it. I thought a good time to try, with Ron loving big reds. And this is definitely big. Overripe cherries and blackberries macerating in cassis. Big alcohol, big tannins, big fruit. I really didn't enjoy this, but Ron (though taken back at first) did. I'll note this is $75 locally, very generous of Oswaldo to let me try, but I think my Scholium curiosity is getting less each time I try, more interesting than tasty to me. C+

2007 Texier Cotes du Rhone Brezeme
Much more my speed. Balanced dark berry fruit, herbs and smoke, nice length. While skinny next to the Scholium, this is a nice middleweight, with fruit, tannins,and acidity all in their places. Lovely Syrah (I think). B+/A-

The dogs enjoyed their bones, we enjoyed the food and company, and so the weekend ends.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  

Thanks for the notes Dale...

As to the Dujac... 2002 is not known to be a terrior driven vintage to begin with, perhaps it is more than the producer... although I have little experience with Dujac to speak from.

I also found the '07 Drouhin St. Veran boring. What's up with that?

The 2007 Texier Cotes du Rhone Brezeme is a really good wine, and for around $20 also a pretty good value.

I have never even seen a bottle of Abe Schoener's wine, and the more I read about experiences like yours, the less concerned I become about ever seeing or tasting one.

Thanks for the notes, I was especially looking forward to your take on the Scholium. Sounds convergent with what I experienced.

Will post notes soon on a bunch of wines drunk recently, including an 07 Brezeme.

[David M. Bueker]

The Scholium wines are very interesting, just not very good IMO. I am so looking forward to my bottle of the 2005 Babylon Tenbrink.

As for 2002 in Burgundy - the wines have always had some extra fat/stuffing, but with time more of the bones will show. A year like 2001 or 2006 shows more obvious "terroir", but that does not mean that the riper year will never show it.

As for the Dujac negoce wines, I have never been able to justify the pricing, as they still cost nearly as much (or more) as very good Jadot premier cru wines.

Dave, actually I have liked the 07 Drouhin St Veran a lot for its price level, just this bottle seemed dull. I actually think it was lightly corked, I tried a little last night and got some traces of damp cardboard.

Chris, I agree that 2002 will never go down as the most site expressive year, but there are plenty of wines that are of their place, and as David says as fat recedes they should show more. David mentions Jadot, and the Jadot Beaune 1ers are good examples of affordable '02s that show their origin. Unfortunately, while I love Jadot, they'll never be mistaken for Dujac.

The theory of Abe seems better than the practice. Of course, the name is about learning, hope he learned something.

[Jenise]

Dale, nice to hear that that there's an 09 Il Mimo running around, I'll have to look for it. It has been a summer favorite of ours for several years now.