WTN: Leeuwin, Montelena, Gruaud, CdP, BdM, Tokaji

Lunch with a couple of the Usuals at Shangri-La's Red.

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2002 - Medium gold. Looks and smells like a dessert wine. Sweet, honeyed nose. Candied fruits. A little nutty due to some oxidation. Gentle smoky oak. Good balance. Medium to rich mouthfeel. Peak now so drink it up. Excellent.

Chateau Montelena 1995 - Tobacco leaf. Just a little sweetness but fruit is fading and the wine is hollowing out. Weak. Past its peak. Drink it up very soon.

Chateau Montelena 1996 - Good nose. Sweet fruit and a little earth. Mid-weight. Sweet and soft. Later, bacon/meaty flavors. Some leather. Complex and at peak now. Excellent.

Chateau Gruaud Larose 1986 - Very meaty and dry. Attractive nose. Acidity on the finish is quite high. Didn't really do anything for me although others
thought it was quite good. I think it's best to drink up if you have it.

Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes 1998 - Very sweet nose. Floral. Plump. plummy, dried herbs. Very ripe. Soft. Beautiful Chateauneuf. Long, savory finish. Outstanding and perfect now.

Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 1998 - Sweet nose and flavor. Dry finish. An excellent Brunello for current drinking.

Chateau Megyer Tokaji 5 Puttonyos 1993 - Honey gold color. Coffee and raisins. Rich. Orange marmalade. Lovely balance. No hurry to drink this but it is very attractive now. Excellent.

Jay, thanks for the great notes.

Never had a Leeuwin Art Series--I need to rectify that. Thanks for the update on the 98 Janasse--I have their Chaupin bottling from that year and have been wondering about drinking windows for that cuvee.

I can't agree with you on the '95 Montelena Estate being past it. Yes, just about any vintage tasted alongside the fantastic 1996 is going to suffer, but '95 can still go a while, IMHO. In the '90s, I would definitely put it behind '96, '92, '91 and '94, more or less on par with '97 and '99, but well ahead of '90 and '93--both for quality and potential longevity. I haven't had it since Jan '09--I sure hope it hasn't fallen off that dramatically!

-Michael

HI Michael,

Thanks for your comments. There may be storage issues behind the performance of the '95 Montelena. All the wines were stored in conditions a litter warmer than ideal although it did not really show in the other wines. Maybe the temperature matured the '95 faster.

'92 Montelena is one of the finest American wines I've had.

I'm not a Chardonnay fan but Leeuw.in Art Series is the one I make a point to have in my cellar.

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2002 - Medium gold. Looks and smells like a dessert wine. Sweet, honeyed nose. Candied fruits. A little nutty due to some oxidation. Gentle smoky oak. Good balance. Medium to rich mouthfeel. Peak now so drink it up. Excellent.

Rather surprising - while I don't have much experience with the LEAS Chards, I've heard good things about their ageability (and the last one I had - the '04 - was still incredibly primary and youthful without any of the oxidative or honeyed aspects you mention).

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2002 - Medium gold. Looks and smells like a dessert wine. Sweet, honeyed nose. Candied fruits. A little nutty due to some oxidation. Gentle smoky oak. Good balance. Medium to rich mouthfeel. Peak now so drink it up. Excellent.

Rather surprising - while I don't have much experience with the LEAS Chards, I've heard good things about their ageability (and the last one I had - the '04 - was still incredibly primary and youthful without any of the oxidative or honeyed aspects you mention).

The '02 was under cork but since the '04, it's been under screw cap; at least for the ones available in Manila. I don't recall getting the '03 here. Maybe the cork had something to do with it. It was purchased as soon as it arrived here and I know it was shipped in reefer. It was also stored in a good condition. I had the '04 recently as well and I agree with your assessment.