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WTN: Three from Bordeaux

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Chris Kissack

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WTN: Three from Bordeaux

by Chris Kissack » Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:20 am

I'm about to depart for the Loire and am just doing a little 'mopping up' before I depart. So here are three final notes on dinner wines, tasted in Bordeaux. I'll be back relaxed and recharged in three weeks. My best wishes for happy summer holidays to all! :)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: Although I approached this wine with a little trepidation in view of the vintage, I was really impressed by the aromatics. A very densely styled nose, packed full of smoky tobacco and sweetly maturing fruit, with touches of dry leaves and undergrowth. A firm substance on the palate, with a deep and concentrated layer of fruit and delicious maturity laid over the substance of a seven-year wine. Lots of spice and grip. Lots of meat with a chewy edge too. Low acidity, so not to everyone's liking (and I didn't think it would be to mine), but this is really delicious to drink now. 17.5+/20

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2004: A good nose here, with plenty of iron and rust maturity, rather deep and smoky, with a slightly meaty note at the edges. The palate has a supple character, with a rather broad and polished style, with some grip in the midpalate and finish. There is some pepper and spice in the end too. A good wine although rather solid and straightforward at present. I was much more convinced by this on my last tasting, I see. 16.5+/20

Chateau de Myrat (Sauternes) 2003: This is a Sauternes estate of which I have minimal experience, so it's great to get a taste here. A mid-gold hue. Plump fruit on the nose, slightly high-toned, with touches of coconut and apricot. A full and plump texture to match, sweet, quite lush fruit, with lots of texture. Tangible tropical and citrus substance, but the most notable aspect is the rich, fat mouthfeel. Not a lot of acidity, in keeping with the vintage of course, so this is not the most lively of wines. Nice appeal in terms of flavour though. 15.5+/20

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