WTN: 2010 Theise DI Tasting - The Champagnes

[David M. Bueker]

So yesterday Laura and I went to NYC to taste through the Terry Theise portfolio. German and Austrian notes are going to take a bit of time, as there are a ton of them, but here's a taste with the small group of Champagnes that were on show.

Please ntoe that I did not ask about the disgorgement dates on all the wines, so I give it only for those where I checked. I asked in general, and was told that they all were 2009 disgorgements, but I only have specifics on a few.

CAVEAT: Please note that I am being a rather stern grader here. 8 of the 9 wines would be a joy to have, and would wipe up most of the field of big house Brut NVs.

Varnier-Fanniere Brut NV
100% Chardonnay. Quite crisp and lemony. Good palate length, and fine balance. Perhaps a touch sweeter than I prefer. Good-

A. Margaine Cuvee Traditionelle Brut NV
Immediately evocative of granny smith apple. A rounder palate impression than the preceeding wine. Good

Gaston-Chiquet Tradition Brut NV
Disgorged July 2009. Shows some dark fruit elements (45% Meunier in this), and is drinking very well now. Plenty of richness, but also good back end precision. Very good

Rene Geoffroy Empriente Brut NV
All the fruit is from 2004, but not declared as a vintage wine. This was very floral, and had lots of crisp apple aromas/flavors. Also toastier than most of the other wines. Good+

Marc Hebrart Cuvee de Reserve Brut NV
Quite rich, but simultaneously crisp. Lost of red fruit here. Rather short on the finish though. Good

Henri Goutorbe Cuvee Prestige Brut NV
Even more in the red fruit direction here. Quite round - lacks focus to my taste. Good-

Pehu-Simmonet Selection Brut NV
I really want to like this wine. I do. It's very elegant. It has a lot of fruit. But it just lays there on the palate & never takes off for me. Good-

Henri Billiot Reserve Brut NV
Best in show. Disgorged October 2009. Rich, precise, dark fruit, length, focus, elegance and power - those are the words I wrote down. Excellent

2001 Vilmart & Cie Coeur de Cuvee Brut
All I get is oak. This is severely under-wined. I don't enjoy this style at all. Laura hated it. Fair- (and that's being generous)

Missed the Champagnes for the most part (was largely focusing on Germany and Austria, though somehow I managed to miss both Hiedler and Hexamer). Though I did get a couple of pours of the Billiot (upon your insistence) and it was indeed fantastic.

i've come to be quite a fan of Marc Hebrart champagnes. In fact i visited Jean-Paul Hebrart, the current in charge person, just last month. the Reserve is the basic wine and i have often enjoyed it. Tasting everything side by side, the Selection stood out for me among the NV's. It has a higher percentage of Chard and is from the better parcels and a smaller harvest. Jean Paul is a very personable and interesting. I shipped home 4 6packs of the Selection. One interesting note: I asked him if he thought 1996 or 2002 was the best vintage. he thought only a few seconds before saying: 2008. so, i guess i better start saving up for when they hit the market.