WTN: Rosso Conero overtrumps Barbaresco

These two fine Italians were opened on successive evenings.

Barbaresco Rabajà 1995 – Bruno Rocca – Alc. 13.5%. This producer is one of the favourites of Gambero Rosso and Rabajà is considered one of the best sites in Barbaresco but I didn’t think that this bottle lived up to that sort of billing. My complaint is that its charms seemed rather facile and lacking the distinctiveness that I want from top Nebbiolo from Langhe. I think that this may be the product of heavy oaking; obvious wood scars such as prominent vanilla and caramel were no longer present but there was a suave sweetish patina around the medium/full body and its rose and tar tinted fruit and good mouth-fill. A well made and enjoyable wine which, for me, missed being special; 15.5/20++.

Rosso Conero Riserva Dorico 2001 – Alessandro Moroder – Alc. 13.5%. This is one of the finest bottles which I have had from the Montepulciano grape. If I decode the back label correctly, this saw 24 months in small oak barrels but happily I could detect no oak flavours which seem to have been perfectly integrated into the attractively impressive matter. Body was full and a lot of fresh acidity and bright primary red and dark fruit was present showing depth and richness without the blackberry and English fruit cake tendencies of much up-market M. d’Abruzzo. Mouth-feel was quite velvety and the shape showed structure and a crescendo towards a decently long finish. The overall effect was both powerful and harmonious 17/20.

Rosso Conero Riserva Dorico 2001 – Alessandro Moroder – Alc. 13.5%. This is one of the finest bottles which I have had from the Montepulciano grape. If I decode the back label corrected, this saw 24 months in small oak barrels but happily I could detect no oak flavours which seem to have been perfectly integrated into the attractively impressive matter. Body was full and a lot of fresh acidity and bright primary red and dark fruit was present showing depth and richness without the blackberry and English fruit cake tendencies of much up-market M. d’Abruzzo. Mouth-feel was quite velvety and the shape showed structure and a crescendo towards a decently long finish. The overall effect was both powerful and harmonious 17/20.

I love this wine. A local merchant poured me a taste of this last spring and I jumped on a case immediately. Only a few bottles left and no source for more.

Tim,

I would say that the style of the Rocca wine is exactly typical of the wines promoted by the Gambero Rosso, particularly in that era. Which is very unfortunate, obviously.

These two fine Italians were opened on successive evenings.

Barbaresco Rabajà 1995 – Bruno Rocca – Alc. 13.5%. This producer is one of the favourites of Gambero Rosso and Rabajà is considered one of the best sites in Barbaresco but I didn’t think that this bottle lived up to that sort of billing. My complaint is that its charms seemed rather facile and lacking the distinctiveness that I want from top Nebbiolo from Langhe. I think that this may be the product of heavy oaking; obvious wood scars such as prominent vanilla and caramel were no longer present but there was a suave sweetish patina around the medium/full body and its rose and tar tinted fruit and good mouth-fill. A well made and enjoyable wine which, for me, missed being special; 15.5/20++.

I understand, but you are one tough customer!