The arrival in our household of some tart cherries from "Farmer Kevin," our CSA produce supplier, inspired me to cook some duck breasts we had lying about and adorning them with a tart cherry sauce of my creation. A brief consultion of Child and Beck's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" produced a workable recipe for the sauce, so out come the dish, with couscous and the season's last asparagus, also courtesy of farmer Kevin. Since this dish fair screamed "Burgundy" to me, I hied down to the cellar and returned with a bottle of:
2002 Robert Chevillon Nuits St. George Vieilles Vignes
nose: pencil lead, spices, cherries, raspberries, a hint of smoke
palate: firm acidity, deep core of fruit, smooth finish
This wine, a village-level offering from Chevillon (Chicago importer, not KL), was bricking in color and seemed perfectly mature to my taste. A lovely match with the duck and cherry sauce.
Mark Lipton

