WTN: 2003 Gloria, 2003 Senejac

I was really surprised to find my 2003 Gloria apparently fading a bit. It’s hard to imagine that it is simply taking a breather at this date, like sleeping beauty. While still elegant and pleasant, I think it is in its early stages of saying good-by.

2003 Senenjac, on the other hand, was surprisingly fresh and substantial. It reminded me of Sociando Mallet, attempting to pose as a classed growth and doing a pretty good imitation, only revealing itself on the finish. A little short to balance with its fine, complex nose and very substantial cassis-inspired mid-palate.

[Jenise]

Hard to imagine counting a Gloria out at just seven years old even in 2003. Where was the fading, both nose and palate or palate only?

[David M. Bueker]

2003 is one weird vintage, and I doubt any of us can predict where the wnes will go. That said I am also surprised at a poor showing by the Gloria, especially since St. Julien is more succesful as a region than most in this torrid vintage.

Hard to imagine counting a Gloria out at just seven years old even in 2003. Where was the fading, both nose and palate or palate only?

Jenise and David: I know you were right, Jenise, about me counting 1996 Cantemerle out prematurely a while back. But I think I am correct this time. Both are dulled down from when I first tried a bottle a couple of years ago and found it to be fabulous. And I am almost certain there is no TCA at play. I believe can always detect even the tiniest trace when I smell the cork. All that said, I have five bottles left and will try another one very soon to double check. I had saved the five bottles in fond anticipation, having bought seven originally, for some odd reason.

On another matter, I won't post anything about this except right here, since I am writing, because the restaurant is not a keeper. My good friends from yesteryear, Cookie and Wilbur, took me to Old Ebitt Grill at 15th and G NW, in Washington. A cab driver said it was the most famous restaurant in Washington, because it is somewhat historical, I guess. I ordered my calves liver medium rare, and waiter insisted that I should have it medium. I am used to being told what to do by my wife, regardless of what I think (and it has served me well), so I tend to lie down in such situations. He was wrong, which says something about the restaurant. Having lived in Washington, the city is coming back to me like an old glove, though.

Calves liver medium rare is the only way to go in my opinion too!

[Jenise]

Hard to imagine counting a Gloria out at just seven years old even in 2003. Where was the fading, both nose and palate or palate only?

Jenise and David: I know you were right, Jenise, about me counting 1996 Cantemerle out prematurely a while back. But I think I am correct this time. Both are dulled down from when I first tried a bottle a couple of years ago and found it to be fabulous. And I am almost certain there is no TCA at play. I believe can always detect even the tiniest trace when I smell the cork. All that said, I have five bottles left and will try another one very soon to double check. I had saved the five bottles in fond anticipation, having bought seven originally, for some odd reason.

I wasn't suspecting TCA. Rather, looking for evidence that the wine was taking a nap (2003's have been rumored to not do that so far, but maybe it's time). When there's a lot of aroma but less taste than expected, that's kind of a clue.

Tried a second 2003 Gloria. Much better than the last one I reviewed. There was something wrong with that particular bottle. Glorious nose of earth, fresh oak and cassis. The finish, though, was out of balance with the nose and taste. A bit tannic and dry, with not much flavor. Without the requisite acid, many of these 2003s are not aging gracefully. But they are genuine Bordeaux, not jammy Cal Cab cousins. They are just a bit angular and simple. But they offer a nice variation. I am glad I have a good vintage sampling. I especially like the Cantemerle and Lynch Moussas right now.