François Pinon, ex-psychologist, makes good quality Vouvray across the board, from fizz to still wines, including sweeter cuvées.
François Pinon Vouvray Brut NV: A sparse bead in the glass and a sweetly ripe but smoky layer of apples on the nose, spiced up with a hint of sugar-encrusted grape skins. Already this seems different to my previous notes. The palate is firm, with acid-tinged fruit and a good if rather sherbetty minerality. An appealing sappy substance, mouthfilling, a firm mousse, and a sweet apple and stone finish. This is sufficiently different from previous bottles to question whether it is typical, although there is no oxidation or other distinguishing feature. Perhaps it is just developing quickly? All the same, a good wine. 16.5/20
Bollinger has been on the up in recent years; I am quite taken with their rosé and that is not something that can be said of many wines in this sector of the Champagne market. Billecart-Salmon's NV rosé was the last wine of the type I enjoyed as much as this one.
Bollinger Rosé NV: Lot L924409 I think (a little difficult to read). Very fat mushroom-shaped cork, and the first glass foams with youthfulness, but those subsequent are better behaved. Beautiful colour, peachy-salmon, and an intensely fine bead, remarkable for a non-vintage cuvée. Great nose, with freshly picked strawberries, peaches, smoky with a pure and lightly creamy edge. Lovely freshness on the palate with a fine, slowly-building substance through the midpalate. Precise acidity, backing up a lightly silky-cottony feel to the texture, and a gentle but broad finish. Good length too. Very composed, harmonious, remarkably elegant, the red wine and base wine seem perfectly entwined. Alongside the wines of Billecart-Salmon, undoubtedly one of the best non-vintage rosés I have experienced. I suspect it would give even greater pleasure over the next few years. 17.5+/20