WTN: 08 Graf Neipperg Schwarzriesling

2008 Graf Neipperg Schwarzriesling QbA Trocken -Württemberg, Germany

Of course Schwarzriesling has nothing to do with Riesling (not even that "new" old Rote Riesling the kids are talking about.) It is in fact just plain old Pinot Meunier. This is only my 2nd taste of varietal Pinot Meunier from Germany and my first from Württemberg, where it has a strong following and is quite well represented in the vineyards. I have had 6 or 7 from California and Oregon as well as the odd taste from a Champagne blending seminar or two, but have never really gotten down to the tacks with this grape so I was excited to try this bottle.

A pretty strawberry nose with tangy cranberry, red currant, and rosehips. Very fresh and youthful and reminds me (in only the best way) of good Hautes Cotes de Beaune from a vintage like 2007 -simple, pure fruit without being green or herbacious. for 10€, not bad.

Cheers,
Bill

This was a surprise. The historian in the town my wife's family comes from gave it to us as a gift. It was red and tasted pretty good but not at all like Riesling. A little sleuthing here on the forum revealed that it was none other than 100% Pinot Meunier, something I'd never had before. After reading that Pinot Meunier is a Pinot Noir mutant I was, of course, easily convinced that it indeed was. Not at all delicate, moderately full and tasty.

Dan,

Since you are in upstate NY, you might be interested to know that Dr. Frank makes a Pinot Meunier. I suspect it may be one of those wines made in such small quantities that most is sold through the tasting room. My memory of it was that it wasn't bad, but rather one dimensional - a good reason why it doesn't get bottled by itself much. Grapes are probably used mostly for the Chateau Frank sparkling wine line.

This brings me down memory lane. It's a cool feature to get an email when a 5 year old post is brought back to life.

Unknown to me at the time, I got the opportunity to work with Schwarzriesling/Pinot Meunier in Germany a couple of months after I posted that note. I worked for the winery for a couple of years and we made both red and blanc de noir Schwarzriesling (still wines) in that time. It was a fun grape to work with. It gets very black a week or so before Pinot Noir and has more rustic fruitiness and higher acidity. It makes a good match with Pinot Noir not only because of their affinity as blending partners, but also because they don't need to be harvested and processed in the same window of time which makes for a less-stressful harvest and lets each variety get the attention it deserves. I've been thinking about making a varietal Pinot Meunier in Oregon. There just isn't much planted. Eyrie makes a good one if you ever get the chance to try.

Cheers,
Bill