Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Les Cazetiers” 1991 – Faiveley (récolte du domaine) – Alc. 13%. This was the last of three or four bottles from an unfashionable vintage ; the first at the end of the 90s did not sing and showed rather aggressive dry tannins. Last July’s bottle was delicious and this was if anything even better showing good depth with beautifully complex mature fruit, notes of sour dark cherry and ivy, good length and a residual virile firmness on the finish; 17.5/20+.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone 1999 – Poliziano – Alc. 13.5% was another lovely bottle. Colour was still deep though flecked with rust and the nose was expressive with notes of rich red fruit, some spice and tangy minerals. The palate was quite full bodied, generously mouth-filling and long with both depth and tangy brightness enriched by old book and noble oil notes; at its peak, I think, 17/20++.
Chianti Classico 2003 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc. 13.5% was a good effort for this torrid vintage showing more roundness and richness and less acidity and tang than usual but still recognisably Chianti and free of the candied notes which mar many 03s; 16/20.
Valais AOC Cornalin 2004 – Denis Mercier, Sierre (CH) – Alc. 13%. Cornalin is an indigenous red grape variety from Valais Switzerland. Aromas were well developed with steely sour cherry reminiscent of Northern Rhône but also fine savoury black currant, minerals and ivy. The palate was medium bodied, linear and long with brightly focussed juicy fruit and minerals, good acidity and an invigorating tang. This was slightly fuller, I think, than the 2002 drunk last year; the overall effect is robustly tasty and elegant at the same time; 16.5/20++.