WTN: Three Southern Cone Pinot Noirs

I don’t know about you, but I’m interested in pinot noir from outside Burgundy if it a) tastes like pinot, but b) doesn’t taste like Burgundy. Since these variables are not independent, I rely on commonalities with Jura and Loire pinots to internalize some idea of the grape's essence (if you put a gun to my head, I’d say a kind of serious strawberriness, in contrast to gamay’s playful strawberriness; after that, all bets are off).

Recently I dissed a young Calera Ryan PN for not tasting like pinot. Most southern cone pinots I’ve tasted, including high profile ones like Amayna, Casa Marin, Luca and Cono Sur, have lacked pinosity, possibly due to elevated alcohol levels, which seem to strip the grape of (what I’m calling) its essence. So it was gratifying to finally drink one that tasted like pinot without trying to mimic Burgundy.

2007 Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Cincuenta y Cinco Patagonia 13.0%
Made by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, from the family that brought you Sassicaia. From grapes farmed biodynamically from vines planted in 1955, fermented with indigenous yeasts (50% carbonic) and aged in Burgundian barrels (50% new) for 11 months. Unfined and unfiltered.

Smoky strawberry pinot aromas with a touch of epoxy. Curiously salty, with good acidity. Strangely lacking in sweetness, especially the jammy sweetness so characteristic of South American wine. But falls into balance with food, becoming very enjoyable. Not deep or complex, but deserves a tip o’ the hat for avoiding stereotypes and managing to pull off an original expression. Alas, it’s so expensive that the achievement is pyrrhic. But at least it shows what’s possible if you set your wallet to the task and have your heart (or ear) in the right place.

2006 Errazuriz Pinot Noir Wild Ferment Casablanca Valley 14.5%
As I was unscrewing this, I was thinking "whatever possessed me to buy a pinot with 14.5% alcohol?" Of course, it was the wild ferment. Color, at least, is classic pinot. Very aromatic, with red berry, smoked meat and a curious note of passion fruit, which I’ve found one other time in a red (a Chilean Carmenere). There’s also some reduction (which I seldom get in screw caps), showing as mild (i.e., vegetarian) baby poop. Acidity is there, but appears unnatural. Entry is pleasant, but falls off quickly, leaving a trail of alcohol. Sure as hell not like Burgundy, and only faintly reminiscent of pinot. As the Benedictine monks used to say, there’s no point in being yeast-virtuous if you sin the rest of the way to the confessional.

2007 Luca Pinot Noir Uco Valley Mendoza 14.5%
As I was uncorking this, I was thinking "whatever possessed me to buy a pinot with 14.5% alcohol?" This time I have no excuse. Made by Laura Catena and named after her son, these are claimed to be acidulation-free because of the vineyards’ high altitudes. Subdued nose of cherry, oak and cocoa. Surprisingly salty, before food, with less alcohol burn than feared and little overt oak flavor. Has good extraction without being super ripe and shows class. But not even remotely pinot-like. Good quality, but could be any grape. Makes no sense at all.

I’m interested in pinot noir from outside Burgundy if it a) tastes like pinot, but b) doesn’t taste like Burgundy. .

I can see Oswaldo now, "that $10 Chilean PN tastes just like a Rousseau Chambertin, but I want something different!"

Just kidding, I do understand what you mean.

I’m interested in pinot noir from outside Burgundy if it a) tastes like pinot, but b) doesn’t taste like Burgundy. .

I can see Oswaldo now, "that $10 Chilean PN tastes just like a Rousseau Chambertin, but I want something different!"

Just kidding, I do understand what you mean.

Good one!

some idea of the grape's essence (if you put a gun to my head, I’d say a kind of serious strawberriness, in contrast to gamay’s playful strawberriness; after that, all bets are off).

Just so you know, I'm going to steal this description of the two referenced grapes.

some idea of the grape's essence (if you put a gun to my head, I’d say a kind of serious strawberriness, in contrast to gamay’s playful strawberriness; after that, all bets are off).

Just so you know, I'm going to steal this description of the two referenced grapes.

Cool! I was already ducking for cover...

[David M. Bueker]

I've never thought of Pinot Noir in the strawberry vein. Red cherry is more the fruit I would go for.

I've never thought of Pinot Noir in the strawberry vein. Red cherry is more the fruit I would go for.

You must not have had Mugnier before - light strawberry wash.
I'd agree with the red cherry, but then, you find black fruited pinots as well like in some Pommard, Nuits-St-George, etc. They really run the spectrum.

I couple years ago I included a Chilean PN in a tasting: Matetic, Equilibrio, Pinot Noir, San Antonio 2005. Tasted more like a light-bodied Cab Sauv than anything else, and a friend at the tasting put it very nicely: "Everything this does, a Chilean Cab does better." First and only Chilean PN I've had to date, and while I've been told "they're not all like that," this batch of notes just seems to reaffirm my decision to dismiss Chilean PN from my attention. Why is it that the quest of many New World winemakers is to make PN not taste like PN? To my palate only in Oregon and New Zealand do they consistently get it right. California occasionally gets it right. I have a book at home that while excellent in many other regards proclaims California as the most successful spot for PN outside of Burgundy. My impression is that that assessment is based merely on the fact that they never have problems getting it to ripen properly. Various other places in said book the author seems to define success with a grape as "can get it really ripe." But why has nobody realized that PN can't support high alcohol? Never had one at 14% or greater that didn't leave at least some burning sensation that totally screwed up the finish - attractive upfront yes, but as Broadbent puts it "a peroxide blond of a wine:" superficially attractive but showing its roots. Well, didn't mean to go into a rant, but there you have it.

[David M. Bueker]

I've never thought of Pinot Noir in the strawberry vein. Red cherry is more the fruit I would go for.

You must not have had Mugnier before - light strawberry wash.
I'd agree with the red cherry, but then, you find black fruited pinots as well like in some Pommard, Nuits-St-George, etc. They really run the spectrum.

I've had Mugnier. You must find some really ripe strawberries.