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Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

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Noel Ermitano

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Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

by Noel Ermitano » Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:07 am

The Stockbroker called for a dim sum lunch at the Shangri-La Makati's Shang Palace the other week - he'd take care of the wines again said he. I now don't recall exactly whether it was on Tuesday the 1st June or Wednesday the 2nd (too many things going on last week). In any event, we were 6 for lunch proper, J-Lab, the 7th person, caught up afterwards.

Laraine and I were the first to arrive, Arnie, Johnny and the Stockbroker followed within a matter of minutes. The latter told us J-Lab would be late, so, noticing an extra seat, I asked who else was coming. The Stockbroker told me it would be "a surprise". I immediately guessed it to be Keiichi visiting from Tokyo, but it turned out to be Vancouver Vince who will be in town for around a month this time.

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We were all happy to see Vince, of course, especially since he didn't bring any Osoyoos wine to inflict upon us. We started lunch off with some bubbly - as any civilized meal should begin...

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1996 Champagne Jacquesson Avize - Very crisp, dry, bright, laser-focused white fruit, lots of citrus (lemon and calamansi - the latter a small Philippine lime), bit of slate, with yeasty/sourdough notes. The calamansi notes come on stronger towards the back and into the finish. Quite lively with bracing acidity and calamansi that'll wake up one's palate for sure and keep it awake for some time I'd expect. Certainly does the job and more of cleansing one's palate in between bites of hargaw, siu mai and even the deep-fried taro puff.

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2007 Zind Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer - Brightly ripe pear, bit of peach, apple, minerals, hint of honeysuckle, slight undertone of petrol. There is a slight, yet very apparent ripe-sweetness to this, but not over-bearing or cloying at all since the acidity tied it down and balanced it well. I liked this quite a bit - it was my favorite wine of the lunch, especially with the slightly chewy deep-fried pork puff (Arnie knows the Cantonese name for it, but I don't remember what it is).

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I vaguely recall J-Lab arrived halfway through the next bottle. He didn't join us for lunch as I think he just came from another one, but he did go through the wines except the immediately above-mentioned riesling which was drained in a trice.

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2007 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim - Another that seems to have quite a bit of residual sugar in it. Typical white flowers and lightly tangy, spiced lychee, peach and lemon custard. There is a very slight underlying minerally bitterness that surfaces towards the back and finish that I find balances out the sweetness. Very round, good heft, decent enough acidity and a lush, creamy texture. Should be a crowd-pleaser of a wine.

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With the main courses hitting the table, the Stockbroker served his 1999 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape (Magnum) - J-Lab's notes, posted earlier at a local wine BB, fit mine almost to a tee (except only for the allusion to South African wines which I am not really familiar enough with to draw such a reference). I reproduce them here as follows:

Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape 1999 - From magnum. Leathery, with a bit of tobacco . Some cough syrup. Sweet fruit. Generally soft on the palate but firms up on the finish. Dried herbs, and much later, a rubber component I usually associate with South African wines. Rather pleasant and easy.


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Conversation started to take its usual humorous turn - in particular, J-Lab's good-natured lament about a movie press release's curious, though surely inadvertent, omission of Johnny's name in the cast had us all roaring with laughter.

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Everyone pretty much done with the main courses, Arnie marshaled the orders for dessert. I got some I think, but no longer recall what it was I ordered. With these, a finishing bottle was popped.

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Champagne Jacquesson 733 NV - Round, ripe, sweetish pear, apple, good bit of citrus and a fragrant tropical fruit that I just couldn't put my finger on (Johnny called it passionfruit) with some chalky/mineral notes and slight underlying milk-chocolaty pinot noir notes. Playful, easy-drinking style. Quite different in character from the Jacquesson 732 NV that I drank quite a bit of.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:14 am

Glad to see the positive note on the 2007 Clos Hauserer. I have heard good things about Alsace Riesling in 2007, and yours is the first "official" note to confirm it.
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Noel Ermitano

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Re: Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

by Noel Ermitano » Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:36 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Glad to see the positive note on the 2007 Clos Hauserer. I have heard good things about Alsace Riesling in 2007, and yours is the first "official" note to confirm it.

I liked it well enough, David. It was my favorite wine in terms of those served in the lunch. I must confess, though, that I am generally no big fan of Zind Humbrecht's style of rieslings and gewürz. I tend to favor Leon Beyer's dry style for non VT/SGN Alsace whites. I did try to describe the subject wine as objectively/factually as possible though (as I do with all wines I write about so as to let as little as possible of my personal preferences cloud my notes).

Best,

N
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Michael K

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Re: Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

by Michael K » Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:14 am

Great to see pictures of well executed Dim Sum too! especially the close up of the Shrimp dumplings, where the wrap is sufficiently thin enough to properly see the contents. Unfortunately, in the US, there is really no place where they know how to do that (and I've been everywhere...almost all the states too....) and just have to wait until I get to take a short trip up to Vancouver or Toronto. Nice wine list too! :)
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Re: Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Jun 09, 2010 2:44 am

We were all happy to see Vince, of course, especially since he didn't bring any Osoyoos wine to inflict upon us.

LOL!!!
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Dim Sum w/ Champagne, Alsace Whites & CdP.

by David M. Bueker » Wed Jun 09, 2010 7:18 am

Noel Ermitano wrote:
David M. Bueker wrote:Glad to see the positive note on the 2007 Clos Hauserer. I have heard good things about Alsace Riesling in 2007, and yours is the first "official" note to confirm it.

I liked it well enough, David. It was my favorite wine in terms of those served in the lunch. I must confess, though, that I am generally no big fan of Zind Humbrecht's style of rieslings and gewürz. I tend to favor Leon Beyer's dry style for non VT/SGN Alsace whites. I did try to describe the subject wine as objectively/factually as possible though (as I do with all wines I write about so as to let as little as possible of my personal preferences cloud my notes).

Best,

N


I'm no fan of ZH Rieslings either, finding them a bit top-heavy for my taste. I'm a Trimbach guy. I do like the ZH Gewurztraminers though, as they are often useful foils for some richer/more aromatic Indian dishes.
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