WTN: Dry and harmoniously dry Riesling

2004 Alzinger Riesling Steinertal Smaragd
Never ceases to impress. This is one of my go-tos for really great, singular dry Riesling (for me, up there with Trimbach CFE, Donnhoff's GGs and FX's best Smaragds given its consistency and quality). Slightly more developed than other bottles have been with a gentle honeyed and smoky overlay to the ripe white fruit and intense minerality, rich and layered with herbal elements developing with time, very precise and perfectly balanced with fantastic acids and length. Great wine, and I am glad I bought a bunch of this.

2008 Van Volxem Wawerner Goldberg Riesling
Another fine Riesling, and the contrast with the Alzinger is striking. Full of bright peach, pear and citrus fruit combined with smoky notes and a damp earth character underneath that's very different from the intense rocky/stony mineral notes in the Steinertal. This has a little more richness and just a touch of residual sugar that balances the bright '08 acids nicely, finishing almost dry.

Interesting notes. Where along its drinking window is the Alzinger?

2004 Alzinger Riesling Steinertal Smaragd
Never ceases to impress. This is one of my go-tos for really great, singular dry Riesling...

Glad to see you're appreciating the virtues of Alzinger. I remember when we met back in the fall you said something about his wines not really exciting you very much.

[David M. Bueker]

Let's try to do an Austrian night early this fall.

Glad to see you're appreciating the virtues of Alzinger. I remember when we met back in the fall you said something about his wines not really exciting you very much.

Several bottles later, I've become hooked (and they're certainly offering far better value than FX and Hirtzberger these days)...

Chaim, I'd suggest it's in a great place if you like that combination of youthful fruit and developing flavours. There's a lot of time ahead still, but it's very approachable and enjoyable now.

Several bottles later, I've become hooked (and they're certainly offering far better value than FX and Hirtzberger these days)...

I agree. Plus a more restrained style (if that is possible in the Wachau) which I appreciate very much.