2004 Moulin-Tacussel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 14.0%
Closed, with faint hints of olives and tar. Correct acid/sweet balance, good initial mouth weight, but fades rapidly, ending short. Food brings out the tannins, improving the experience, but flavor stays dumb. ErRhoneous to open one now: if you have any, stay away for at least another year, if not more.
2004 Relagnes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vigneronne 14.0%
Bit more open, with dark cherry, epoxy and tar. Lovely mouth feel, lively acidity, pleasant final bitterness. Food makes the sweetness tilt towards molasses and brings out a Lucinda Williams smokiness. Was very sad to see the bottle end, though a couple of years will only improve it.
Both the above tasted equally promising to me at a large CdP tasting at CSW in 2005, but now the latter’s greater pedigree seems vindicated.
2001 Relagnes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 14.0%
Way more open, with cherry, tar, and olives. Decent weight, mouth puckering acidity overwhelms sweetness before food but becomes balanced with. Good enough stuff, but less satisfying than the 04 Cuvée Vigneronne, despite being entirely awake. Would have been very happy with it at a restaurant, but make higher demands for the home.