WTN: Cahors Malbec tasting led by Michel Bettane

It's interesting to watch Michel Bettane at work.

He's hugely knowledgeable about French wines, expresses himself well, conducts a guided tasting with admirable rigor and a good solid flow of information and background, and then...he begins to issue diktats and pronunciamentos and, perhaps without even realizing what he's doing, begins to offer editorial comments that counter the very wines he has selected for consideration.

Perhaps it is that a man who invests himself so clearly in offering opinions forgets that his opinions are merely that...opinions?

Bettane's task this day was to lead us briskly through a tasting of the diversity of wines of Cahors at the Journees Internationales "Malbec Days" in the Espace Valentre.

If the intent of the organizers was to showcase the entire range of the AOC with their premier grape variety, then they succeeded. Sometimes with warts showing.

La Capelle Cabanac 2007 organically certified grower; argile rouge du causse soil; dense, black, pruney in the nose; dry, scratchy tannins; linear, like a severe Graves in structure; tight and unforgiving at this point.

Chateau Ponzac Cuvee Eternellement 2007 chewy oak/vanilla, slightly hot; expansive in the mouth but not at all harmonized in all its disparate components.

Chateau Croisille, Cuvee Divin 2005 refined, elegant; aromatic of blackberry and violets, with enrobed oak; nice balance of fruit, vinosity and oak; oak is clearly there but doesn't dominate the massive fruit.

Clos d'un Jour, Cuvee Un Jour 2006 aged in terracotta anphorae; fresh, high acidity, brisk flavors, pure berry; consistent, refreshing (my second vintage in a short time of this wine, and I'm again impressed; a wine worth seeking out, as it gives superb fruit and structure and development without any encumbering oak overlay).

Chateau de Gaudou, Cuvee Reserve Caillau 2007 60 to 100 year old vines; "The Beverly Hills of Cahors," says Bettane, "A modern interpretation of old vines." Disconcerting to me: overly ripe, jammy fruit with evident vanilla oak upfront, followed by cedar, menthol, pinene; tannic snap at finish. Someone else opines this "would probably be popular in the U.S." Probably right, and it would probably garner "points" and praise, but not with me, as this much prune jam and oak is not my style at all.

Chateau Lamartine Expression 2006 from the vaunted '3d Terrasse" of the Cahors; an impenetrable wine of super tight structure and exceptionally high tannin. "Wine for the long term," says Bettane, and he's right about that. There's plenty of fruit encased in all this stridency of tannin, but it's not about to emerge now. A keeper, but for the long run. Buy it, cellar it, and forget about it for many, many years.

Chatea La Reyne, Cuvee Vent'Anges 2007 (wind of angels) another from the 3d terrasse and calcareous soils; meaty, dark, roasted plum; smoke; fresh sawn wood; complex and fine and still encased in tight, severe tannins that will be slow to yield; "Wears little makeup," quips Bettane. "Has complete integrity and straight expression."

Domaine Cosse de Maisonneuve, Les Laguets 2005 menthol/eucalyptus; fennel, bretty horse sweat and leather...but when someone suggests this is a 'vin natur' Bettane suddenly becomes irritated, and scoffs, "The stupid dream of natural wine... Wine is not natural! Natural wine is vinegar!!!"

But Bettane is on a roll now and he continues to fulminate, "Wine that is free of sulfur...doesn't exist. The natural sulfur smells bad, when added sulfur usually does not."

It's an interesting situation, where Bettane is saying things that I basically adhere to myself, but is spitting them out so stridently, with such uncharitable force, that I'm uncomfortable with the points he is making. He's certainly not hesitant to make bold, sweeping statements in his total assurance of rectitude. But he has distracted anyone from actually considering the wine in question.

Eventually the hubbub settles down and we proceed to the next wine.

Chateau La Caminade, Cuvee la Commanderie 2006 another brash, tart, linear style of wine, with more raspberry than black fruit; there's a whiff of VA here; and there are cedary aromatics (from an abundance of new oak?)

Clos Triguedina, Cuvee Probus 2005 "The Beverly Hills of Chateau Row," chortles Bettane again. It's not clear whether he's extolling this or demeaning it. This wine exudes sweet oak, totally up front and permeating the wine; profound tannins in the finish; all the fruit is subdued by the sweet reek of oak. With the reputation of this property, one would think the fruit would eventually emerge with age---but it's very hard to imagine balance at this stage.

Chateau du Cedre, Cuvee Le Cedre 2007 just a light whiff of brett at first; then oak, then soft, chewy texture in the middle of the palate with moderate (well, for Malbec) tannins. If the brett doesn't get more funky, this could become a rather nice bottle.

Chateau Lagrezette, Cuvee le Pigeonnier 2005 (Michel Rolland consulting) Syrupy nose; cassis, raw oak; fat, glossy fruit; charcoal on finish; obviously extremely mature grapes. "Some people will like this sort of wine; some won't," says Bettane, obviously hedging his bets here. "This is less the expression of soil than the grapes themselves." Yes, that's one delicate way of putting it.

In the closing comments to the tasting, Bettane utters a summative statement which resonates: "La tipicite d'un appellation et la somme de tipicites individuelles." (I'm sure I butchered the French, but the gist is there at least.)

As a followup, and a contrast, Ricardo Giadorou of Bodegas Dolium in the Lujan de Cuyo region of Argentina has us taste the 2007 Reserve Malbec. At 14.9% alcohol, it's sweet, ripe, silky, jammy, redolent of ripe plums and blackberries and vanilla oak. Giadorou comments that the Argentine Malbecs benefit from their "approachability targeted toward the U.S. market." And it's easy to understand the allure that such wine has to the casual drinker, for this Argentinean is seductive in its easy opulence, especially as contrasted to the severity of most of the Cahors Malbecs we have tasted. But there is an impressive, deep, undercurrent to the wines of Cahors that simply does not exist in the Argentinean wine. Where the Argentinean is pleasant but ephemeral, a pleasant moment quickly gone, the Cahors wines, stern though they can be, demanding as they are, promise pleasures yet to come. and worth the wait.

Nice Hoke. I am envious!
Just back from a cold windy rainy snowy bird survey in S Alberta, would have been better time in Cahors!!

Nice report, Hoke. Michel Bettane was clearly on form. I don't think that Cahors will ever be a crowd pleaser but there is a real distinction in the best examples, which need time to show their stuff.

I have one bottle of Les Laquets 05; I was intending to hold on before opening but wonder now about that it if it is going to prove a brett time-bomb. I have an entry level Cahors 04 called Solis from the same estate which IMO gives a very good idea of what Cahors is about for some €7.

What is it, Tim, about grand poobahs and pontificators, that they feel the need to roil people up when tasting wines? (Wouldn't be ego, would it?)

We did not have the Solis---or at least it is not in my notes. And unfortunately, I don't have a clear and solid recollection of the Les Laquets because of the distracting controversy a la Bettane.

It's interesting to me that I responded somewhat differently to the Croisille in the different contexts; in one tasting I thought it nicely balanced and handling its oak (but still too oaky for my my basic predilections); in the other the oak was more evident and obtrusive. Shows you the trouble with snapshots of wine, dunnit?

I quite like the Cahors wines--whether 100% Malbec or the somewhat lesser Malbec/Tannat/Merlot versions---but it's difficult to be exposed to so many in such short order---the Black Plaque builds up quickly, don't you know?

I do know, however, that while the "global/Rollandized" style is inevitable and must be dealt with (and that there is a market for the stuff), I'm not overly fond of it, and don't think of it as what impresses me about Malbec. Don't get me wrong, Malbec can handle it well enough----it's just that the oak becomes more important than the signature of place.

I can easily handle the fresher, lighter, fruitier styles at low price points---again, Malbec can most certainly handle it and show great style, perhaps much better than Merlot or Cabernet or certainly Pinot Noir, as it is a resolutely stout grape. But the shining nature is in the traditional style for me.

Well, that, and I have to say, the d'Un Jour sur Terre was quite marvellous. I hope it engenders more people to experiment with oakless oxidative aging, as that (based on what I tasted) imparts a delightful concentration and lean austerity to the wine.

What is it, Tim, about grand poobahs and pontificators, that they feel the need to roil people up when tasting wines? (Wouldn't be ego, would it?)

Modesty is certainly not one of Bettane's faults but he just about the most knowledgeable and incisive of the French critics. The word "stupid" trips off his lips too often for him to be likeable and I don't think that he cares much for contrary opinions, rather like RMP.

Anthony Rose has written a fine piece here I think on same event.

http://www.anthonyrosewine.com/journal/ ... dom-cahors

Thanks for posting that link, Bob. It complements Hoke's notes very nicely and makes me kick myself all the more for not having been able to make it . I must compensate by buying some Cahors wines when in-house PO is not looking .

Hi

Modesty is certainly not one of Bettane's faults but he is just about the most knowledgeable and incisive of the French critics.

Knowledgeable and French don't sit too well together in my opinion, not in world wine terms anyway. I remember at a Slow Food symposium at Vinexpo that he was asked - in the absence of the Hungarian wine maker, to introduce the Tokaji Aszu that we were tasting along with other sweet wines against foie gras. He started out by saying that he wasn't the ideal person to introduce it (certainly true) because he much preferred botrytised sweet wines. And this from the man who praised Domaine Cauhapé from Jurançon to the skies. (is it worth reminding people here that Tokaji Aszu is usually WAY more botrytised than most Sauternes, and that Cauhapé is the epitome of fine passerillé sweet wines?) My wife had to physically restrain me from objecting on the spot.

I don't think that he cares much for contrary opinions, rather like RMP.

That's certainly true, because after the tasting I bearded him and pointed out that he was entirely wrong about Tokaji Aszu's lack of botrytis. He claimed that he had been told this was the case, and was more than a little miffed when I suggested that instead of relying on what he was told by his friends, he might be better off going there himself and that I'd seen the botrytised grapes myself in several estates there.

He may be the most knowledgeable of French critics, and while I'd certainly trust him most of the time when talking about French wines, I think that maybe half the regulars here know way more than he does about, and are far more sympathetic towards, wines from the rest of the world.

[Jenise]

Ian! About time you found your way back here.

Hi

He may be the most knowledgeable of French critics, and while I'd certainly trust him most of the time when talking about French wines, I think that maybe half the regulars here know way more than he does about, and are far more sympathetic towards, wines from the rest of the world.

I think that you are wrong about Bettane's lack of sympathy for foreign wines; he is a leader in efforts to broaden French horizons. I subscribed for a time to his periodical "Tast" and often read his articles in the RVF. He quite often reviews foreign wines with good insight and, when in writing, seems to take the trouble to check his facts because I have never caught him out. He is a big admirer of Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, some Italian wines and a few Californians, e.g. Diamond Creek.

I am surprised that he appeared to include Jurançon amongst botrytised wines .

Like everyone he has his faults and I know someone who claims to have seen Bettane falling asleep during a tasting but not failing to comment on all the wines.

Interesting to see Anthony's take on the wines we tasted.

He had a challenging job one day, standing on a table under shade trees leading a tasting while the participants stood around on the grass with the distraction of much of Cahors in panoramic display on a bright sunny day and the Lot winding its way slowly beneath us.

Anthony, as you would expect from reading his articles, is a warm, charming man, and he is always attentive and appreciative of his surroundings, the people he meets, and the wines he tastes.

Hello again, Tim

I think that you are wrong about Bettane's lack of sympathy for foreign wines; he is a leader in efforts to broaden French horizons. I subscribed for a time to his periodical "Tast" and often read his articles in the RVF.

I am surprised that he appeared to include Jurançon amongst botrytised wines .

Well, I used to subscribe to RVF, and dropped my subscription when faced with the unrelenting chauvinism in it. It may be that I'm unduly critical, but the gaffe about Tokaji Azsu was IMO inexcusable. I don't for one moment think that he thought Jurançon was botrytised. What I suspected at the time was that he said what he said about non botrytised wines, as a preamble to damning the Tokaji by saying it wasn't a wine whose type he liked. I don't think he thought for one moment that anyone would tie in that statement with the praise that has (rightly IMO) been heaped on Cahaupé.

Like everyone he has his faults and I know someone who claims to have seen Bettane falling asleep during a tasting but not failing to comment on all the wines.

I know of several occasions where he went to wine tastings, spent quite a while with his regulars, asked them for their opinion and then talked with great authority about the ensemble of the vintage, having tasted almost none of the others. Mind you... he's not the only journalist to prefer to get their information that way - though not many in the wine trade.

>Jenise. Thanks very much. I've been a busy boy, and not been doing as much tasting or even wine drinking as I like to do.

Hello again, Tim

Well, I used to subscribe to RVF, and dropped my subscription when faced with the unrelenting chauvinism in it.

The "unrelenting chauvinism" has not been true for the last five years or so. Clearly I go to the RVF and Bettane's publications for their overall unrivalled depth of knowledge and coverage on French wines. However, they are giving increasing sympathetic coverage of foreign wine and here I find the comments of French orientated palates very relevant to my own tastes.

I'll have to step back in here and comment that, whatever M. Bettane was showing at the Malbec Days tastings was not chauvinism, for his ire was directed at the "natural" claim of certain winemakers and their adherents, and not at all at wines outside of France. He was quite gracious and complementary about the Malbecs of Bodegas Dolium of Argentina that followed his tasting. As were all the cadurciens in attendance; they were appreciative and admiring of what the Argentineans had succeeded in doing with the grape, and were turning any "jealousy" at that achievement into a rallying cry for focusing on regaining what they see (for good reason) as their heritage----not by denigrating the Argentineans, but by focusing their efforts on producing not only quality wines, but wines the consuming public wants to buy.

It's a difficult task for the growers and winemakers of Cahors---they wish to retain their rich heritage and iconic style, as created by their unique terroirs and traditions, but they have to survive in the competitive wine world as well (both within France and within the external markets). Maintaining tradition and embracing change simultaneously is not the easiest thing in the world. I think the cadurciens are attempting just that in the best way they can, and I sincerely hope their effort succeeds.

As to M. Bettane and his proclivities, I've always thought that the wine was more important than the critic; and when the critic begins to assume he or she is more important than the wine, a disservice is being done. He was doing a fine job of leading and narrating the informative tasting; when he launched into a diatribe and began to editorialize, he immediately distracted from the wine that was on the table in front of us...the reason we were there, after all. I value his palate and his ability to express himself; I simply wish he'd stay on topic with the wine.

Hi Hoke,

It's a difficult task for the growers and winemakers of Cahors---they wish to retain their rich heritage and iconic style, as created by their unique terroirs and traditions, but they have to survive in the competitive wine world as well (both within France and within the external markets). Maintaining tradition and embracing change simultaneously is not the easiest thing in the world. I think the cadurciens are attempting just that in the best way they can, and I sincerely hope their effort succeeds.

I couldn't agree with you more here. I have said on these pages that I sometimes feel they have rather lost their way, because in Cahors the Malbec tends to be a tough old bird, and really needs time to begin to shine, but at the same time, the growers need to sell their wines, and not many people have either cellars or patience. I too would like to see them succeed. Their life isn't easy, (Should I say that, living only about 40 miles north of Cahors up the motorway, it's about my nearest vineyard, and so we have quite a good choice of their wines available here?) and never has been (Bordeaux' Police des vins).