WTN: Cot from Chile

2008 Perez Cruz Reserva Cot (Maipo Valley, Chile)

I was rather intrigued when I found this little Malbec from Chile being marketed as a Cot. A very interesting choice, especially in these days when everyone seems to be leaping on the Malbec bandwagon. (Has anyone else noticed them cropping up everywhere - Australia, America, Canada...?) It was intriguing enough that I decided to grab a bottle, despite having gone on a recent rant against Malbec (it's seriously becoming the next Aussie Shiraz, but I digress).

Without going into great detail, I was very impressed with this wine. The fruit did not leap out of the glass and slap you in the face; instead it was elegant and smooth: black cherry, plum, and a hint of cassis. The oak also wasn't offensive; there's vanilla overtones but nothing that put me in mind of sucking on 2x4s. Some nice mineral and slate tones on the palate, with velvety tannins and a lovely round mouthfeel.

This is the most impressive Malbec I've had in a long time, and one that just might restore my hope in this grape again (or rather, my faith in the winemaker's choice of style). It's a great value too, at $20 a bottle.

Having just returned from Malbec Days in Cahors at the Journees Internationale du Vin de Cahors, Melissa, I can personally testify that you don't need to worry about having plenty of dense, compacted, tight, tannic, and rigidly structured Malbecs around....I came across more than enough of them, and I had the black teeth and tongue to prove it!

Yes, there's some diversity of style going on with Malbec, even in the hallowed traditional zone of Cahors. But there are still literally hundreds of 'old style' Malbecs around, waiting to stain glasses and teeth and god forbid any clothing it should come in contact with.

[David M. Bueker]

I've only ever run into it being called Cot in the Loire. Perhaps this is Chilean marketing to differentiate it from Argentinian Malbec?

Maybe, as David says, the point is to differentiate the wine from the Argentine versions (which might be hard to compete with in price). And/or maybe to identify it with the much lighter style of the Loire.

Chile being more francophile than Argentina, the supposition that they would differentiate themselves by linking to French terminology makes a lot of sense.

It takes all kinds: sometimes we see Cahors producers labeling their wine as Malbec to jump on the Argentine bandwagon. Probably not the better ones...

We will recall that no winemakers in Cahors put the word "Malbec" on their labels before 2004. I think Vigouroux was the first, with a "rosé of Malbec" in the 2004 vintage. Unless anyone remembers an earlier one. For that matter, you might see "cot" or "auxerrois" on a back label before 2004, but certainly not on the front. Producers from Cahors and Mendoza were supposed to start a joint-marketing effort to promote malbec in April 2008, but I don't know what ever happened as a result. I did have a conversation with someone at Vigouroux's Haute Serre property last year during which she explained that they'd started putting "Malbec" on their labels in 2005 "for the communication." There was also a claim that malbec and cot were actually not the same grape.

I too have tasted Melissa`s Cot, very nice!

We will recall that no winemakers in Cahors put the word "Malbec" on their labels before 2004. I think Vigouroux was the first, with a "rosé of Malbec" in the 2004 vintage. Unless anyone remembers an earlier one. For that matter, you might see "cot" or "auxerrois" on a back label before 2004, but certainly not on the front. Producers from Cahors and Mendoza were supposed to start a joint-marketing effort to promote malbec in April 2008, but I don't know what ever happened as a result. I did have a conversation with someone at Vigouroux's Haute Serre property last year during which she explained that they'd started putting "Malbec" on their labels in 2005 "for the communication." There was also a claim that malbec and cot were actually not the same grape.

I realize that it makes perfect marketing sense to start calling things Malbec, whether they are from France of Chile or wherever. However, I love that this Chilean wine is so clearly making a statement about standing apart from the tides of Argentinean Malbec. I also love that it is a good wine - and at $20 a bottle, the qpr is just as good as any Argentinean. Maybe better, at least for me, since I like this Cot way more than most of those generic Malbecs.

It takes all kinds: sometimes we see Cahors producers labeling their wine as Malbec to jump on the Argentine bandwagon. Probably not the better ones...

The new Cahors marketing gurus are keen to emphasise Malbec and "Black Wine". I think that there is a risk that too many of their producers will forswear their own regional character in trying to produce Argentinian look-alikes, which their terroir and climate do not really allow them to do successfully. I also think that the slogan "Black Wine" is a mistake at least for anglophones.

It is ironic that Malbec is originally a Bordelais name and its local name in Cahors is Auxerrois or sometimes Côt Noir.

and at $20 a bottle, the qpr is just as good as any Argentinean. Maybe better, at least for me, since I like this Cot way more than most of those generic Malbecs.

Perhaps totally unnecessary but I'll jump in here quickly and say that Melissa is reporting from Canada and quoting Canadian prices---so the $20CAN she mentions would be significantly less kaching in the US.

Question, Mel? What do you think you'd prefer if you had a Cahors Malbec at the same price point as the Chilean Cot? Do you prefer the Cahors general style, or do you think the more fruity/oaky Chilean style would be your preference here?

It takes all kinds: sometimes we see Cahors producers labeling their wine as Malbec to jump on the Argentine bandwagon. Probably not the better ones...

The new Cahors marketing gurus are keen to emphasise Malbec and "Black Wine". I think that there is a risk that too many of their producers will forswear their own regional character in trying to produce Argentinian look-alikes, which their terroir and climate do not really allow them to do successfully. I also think that the slogan "Black Wine" is a mistake at least for anglophones.

It is ironic that Malbec is originally a Bordelais name and its local name in Cahors is Auxerrois or sometimes Côt Noir.

The one thing I can say definitively as a result of the Journees Internationales attendance, Tim, is that while the Cahors AOC people mentioned the name Auxerrois, as well as referred to Cot, those names are considered in the past, and in future they will be referring to Malbec. That was clear. It may have been Auxerrois, but it's Malbec now.

(I also share your unease. But I came away feeling better in that regard. While some estates/vineyards are willing to ape the success of Argentinean Malbec, most realize they simply cannot make their wine in the same way. Yes, they are attempting to "lighten up" the heavy black weight of the wine, but most still understand they cannot "Argentina" it without destroying what they've got. The danger, to me, is more in the high end, the "prestige" properties, who feel more compelled to make prune and oak soup to get the pointillist's attention. I saw quite a bit of that; it seems irresistible to the prestige estates to go that way.)

and at $20 a bottle, the qpr is just as good as any Argentinean. Maybe better, at least for me, since I like this Cot way more than most of those generic Malbecs.

Perhaps totally unnecessary but I'll jump in here quickly and say that Melissa is reporting from Canada and quoting Canadian prices---so the $20CAN she mentions would be significantly less kaching in the US.

Thanks for pointing that out, Hoke - I should have mentioned it initially. Though, why US wine prices are still so much lower than in Canada is ridiculous, and makes me totally crazy. I can't believe I'm living in the country that has the highest booze tax in the world.

Question, Mel? What do you think you'd prefer if you had a Cahors Malbec at the same price point as the Chilean Cot? Do you prefer the Cahors general style, or do you think the more fruity/oaky Chilean style would be your preference here?

I appreciate the Chilean Cot because it nicely straddles the two worlds - it's neither over-the-top fruity like the Argentineans, but it's certainly not as tannic and teeth-staining as a Cahors. It's honestly hard for me to pick which I'd prefer, since I like both. However, I would say that on average I would gravitate towards the Chilean Cot because it's easy to drink and enjoy anytime, whereas a Cahors is something that I would specifically have with food.

Then again, I haven't really had many Cahors lately, so my opinion on them may have totally changed
How's that for a roundabout answer!

I'd say that was about as concise an answer as possible given the vagueness of the premise, Melissa.