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WTN: Special Farewell Dinner

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David Lole

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WTN: Special Farewell Dinner

by David Lole » Mon May 31, 2010 9:10 am

Long-standing friends, Lindsay and Di have sold their alpaca stud farm and are headed for NZ in the next week or so (taking 17 of their prized animals) to start another stud over there. In order to see them off, we decided to meet near their, now, vacated property at Murrumbateman, just outside the ACT, to have dinner at the Shaw Vineyard Restaurant, "Flint". The food was mostly very good, the cost very reasonable, accompanied by sincere and diligent service by manager/part owner, Jai and his enthusiastic staff.

The wines served, in order, were -

Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 1996

Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive 1989

Bouchard Chablis "Valmur" 2004

Marc Pavelot Savigny-Les-Beaune "La Dominode" 1999

Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou (St. Julien) 1981

Ch. Climens (Barsac) 1980

The Roederer displayed a little more colour than previous bottles, possessing an attractive nuttied nuance on the nose in conjunction with some complex yeast and oxidative leesy notes but still retains an underlying fresh citrus core. The palate was multilayered with a creamy mouth feel, potent citrus and yeast-tinged flavour and whopping dry finish. A most remarkable experience but sadly, I believe, if this bottle is indicative, will not go much further than the next few years. I have a few more of these, so I will try another in the near future. 90 points.

The Hugel was a fascinating drop displaying a still moderately youthful colour, classical mature late-picked Alsace nose of lime, minerals and a little petroleum with a slightest tinge of V.A., that did no harm to the overall mix. The palate was glorious with a magical texture, loaded with majestically ripe fruit, unctuous but smooth, polished and focused, finishing with a rare balance - the integrated mineral acid cut was worth the price of admission alone! 93 points with plenty of time to go.

The Bouchard was a strange beast. Probably opened a few years from it's drinking window, but held everyone's interest with its innate flintiness, steely acidity and wonderful delineation. The fruit is still wrapped tight but the wine was a pleasure to try and worthy of 92 points on the night. It may well rate higher in time.

The Pavelot rated highly but never reached the incredible heights of my last bottle opened. Highly perfumed with violets and glossy cherry fruit, this particularly fine Savigny displayed the acclaimed Burgundy silkiness and alluring complexities such wines rarely achieve but lacked the vibrancy, complexity and peacock tail finish to merit a score more than 90 points.

The Ducru was a little passed it's best but managed to surge a little after quite a long breathe in the duck decanter to merit a score of 87 points. There were admirable aspects to this wine - the nose quite outstanding. Unfortunately, the palate was a little oxidised and starting to lose some decorum. Thankfully this my last bottle, but over several years now of drinking this fine result from a soso vintage, this was the only bottle that didn't make the grade.

The Climens was spectacular. Still remarkably fresh, even with 3 decades under its belt, this outstanding example of Barsac was my wine of the night, riddled with elegant strains of almond, pineapple, marzipan and coconut with spicy oak sitting beautifully underneath. In the mouth, the wine possesses everything one wishes for in aged sweet Sauternes - subtly rich and mouth filling coupled with lively and refreshing acid in a desperately long and flavoursome departure. 94 points.

We then wished our friends every ounce of luck and bountiful good wishes for a long and happy stay in New Zealand.
Cheers,

David
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Special Farewell Dinner

by David M. Bueker » Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:20 pm

Thanks for the great notes David.

I am starting to worry very much about 1996 Champagnes. The Egly-Ouriet is collapsing in bottle, and now you report the Roederer heading on an oxidative path.
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Re: WTN: Special Farewell Dinner

by David Lole » Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:37 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Thanks for the great notes David.

I am starting to worry very much about 1996 Champagnes. The Egly-Ouriet is collapsing in bottle, and now you report the Roederer heading on an oxidative path.


I, too, have noticed the same with the Egly-Ouriet. It must be said, though, this is my first other "oxidative" experience with another 1996.
Cheers,

David

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