In the 19th Century, Casa do Canto, based in the slumbery hamlet of Ancas, was the largest property in Bairrada. Fragmented by generations of inheritances, what remains of it today belongs to 94 year old Maria Alexandra Soares Barbedo de Queiroz Rodrigues Trindade (full name on bottle).
Maria Alexandra had two sons. The first, responsible for the winery’s most recent spell of excellence, passed twenty years ago. When we visited in January of this year, the second, who manages the business, was away with his mother in the Douro, where they own a second, no doubt far trendier, winery. According to unsubstantiated local gossip, this surviving son, too bon a vivant, is dedicated to more cosmopolitan interests. Indeed, the place looked direly in need of TLC, but neglect spells opportunity: we saw racks upon racks of vintages going back several decades. Alas, they had nothing for us to taste, but we picked up a Garrafeira (their top bottling) from 1995, one of the finest Bairrada vintages of recent times, for a niggardly €10, and a 1992 Garrafeira, which the caretaker called their best wine from the last 20 years, cost €20. Risible, and not just in terms of carrying costs. But the last laugh won’t be heard until we open one of them, and that came last night.
1995 Casa do Canto Garrafeira Bairrada 13.0%
2000 bottles made, 800 of them curiously elongated, a shape described on the bottle as “Bordeaux with Italian design,” of which this was #155. Presumably 100% Baga. Very dark, but no sign of what Otto calls purplosity, which I envision as a subdural hematoma of the ethical spooficle. Heady cassis aromas laced with tar. Delicious mouth feel, angular fruitiness, wiry, like the frame of a marathon runner (which wines like this surely are). Fruit well balanced by vibrant acidity and mouth puckering tannins. Alcohol fully integrated and no sign of oak. The gestalt is lean, like a Dürer portrait. Yessiree, wine as it used to be in days of yore, and still brimming with future. If you’ve got any brains, make a beeline for Ancas.