Recent positives about the drinkability of 2001 Bdxs made me check into my handful of Larmandes and LMHBs, both of which had shown closed as part of a small Bdx tasting in February of last year. I had planned to let them reach the ten year mark before revisiting, but I’ll take any excuse to break a self-imposed discipline.
2001 Chateau Larmande Saint-Émilion GC 13.5%
Decanted two hours. Aromatically closed, with faint cherry on the cusp of dawn. Lively inner mouth with stereoscopic laterals, correct acid/sweet balance, lively tannins, satisfying weight, the trio lightly marred by a bitter finish that vanishes with food. The aromas never awaken, but drinking a full bottle, as opposed to sipping or tasting, is a surprising pleasure. Still needs time, but performs much better as a pampered only child than as a participant in a police lineup. Boo for tastings.
2001 La Mission Haut Brion Pessac Leognan 13.5%
Decanted two hours. Nose even more closed than its merloutish cousin, showing elegant but one-dimensional blackberries and light smoke. Classy mouth feel, exemplary acid/sweet balance, light tannins, domesticated alcohol, well-integrated (i.e., undetectable) oak. No trace of perfidious modernity, but inexpressive on the organoleptic front.
A closed wine can have its charms, like an ornate but empty picture frame.
