WTN: A Canonical Pesquera

I like Canons in polyphonic music. I dislike cannons as a mechanism of warfare because of my anti-violent/pacific beliefs. And I think, but am not sure, that I dislike the idea of canonical works whether they be in the arts or in wines.

The Pesquera Tinto 1995 from Ribera seems to fall into all these can(n)onical groups. From the beginning of the bottle to the end some two hours later, it hadn't really morphed into anything: it was always singing the same tune as a round.

It was also heavy, explosively aromatic and smoky. A violent wine, it felt like a midget were in my mouth beating me up with a baseball bat made from new American oak.

And it belongs to the canon of so called great wines that one civilized in wine should have experience of. But until now, I hadn't tried one. Despite the danger of being seen as uncivilized, just like I admit that I hope I had never bothered reading the Brontës, I am now hoping I would not have experienced this wine.

Despite some nice, aged Tempranillo aromas, this is massively coconutty and oaky and a harsh oak bitterness also shows on the palate. I had thought that 15 years would be enough to tame that, but it would seem to need a century more. And with how aged the fruit seems, I don't think it will quite make it.

I like Canons in polyphonic music. I dislike cannons as a mechanism of warfare because of my anti-violent/pacific beliefs. And I think, but am not sure, that I dislike the idea of canonical works whether they be in the arts or in wines.

What about Chateau Canon from Bordeaux?

Thanks for the note. Had actually never heard of the producer before (though I'm fairly ignorant on the topic of Spanish wines), didn't realize this was such a highly regarded/esteemed wine, though it doesn't sound like a particularly enjoyable experience.

Otto, just over a year ago, I liked this wine (the crianza) finding that its oak was well integrated into the fruit and texture, which I described as velvety. Different tastes? Different bottle? Or a bit of both?

Thanks for the note. I still have 1 bottle of this but it has been 6 years since I have tasted it. The bottle I had in 2004 was majorly off. Sounds like it is time to grab my last bottle.

Jason

Otto, just over a year ago, I liked this wine (the crianza) finding that its oak was well integrated into the fruit and texture, which I described as velvety. Different tastes? Different bottle? Or a bit of both?

I might have misunderstood, but I thought the Crianza and the Res are the same wine except the Res is released later. Anyway, I think it is a combination of different tastes and bottles. I know that this bottle was stored since release in a relatively cool place which, by common wisdom, retards development. And I find that even when Tempranillo seems old, it seems to hold on for a long time (as some notes of some Monte Real 1981s on the old forums will attest - first bottle, I was afraid would die, yet five years later it was pretty much in the same condition), so might this simply be a case where due to the cool storage the oak in my bottle was more prominent than in yours, and that due to this (in my experience exceptional) aging curve of Tempranillo this bottle just seemed in a funny spot? Well, who cares really? The important thing is that you derived pleasure from your bottle. And that we had a fun time despite my displeasure with my bottle.

Otto, if you dislike works in the canon of art and literature, I think you fail to grasp the concept.

Otto, if you dislike works in the canon of art and literature, I think you fail to grasp the concept.

Very likely. But do elaborate, please!

Otto,

The term 'canon' in art and literature means the "established and universally agreed upon body of work in the area".

For example, for Sherlock Holmes literature, the 'canon' means those stories and novels that Sir Arthur Conan Doyle published during his lifetime.

For wine, 'canonical' is more or less synonymous with 'typical'. In other words, a canonical wine is a wine that is just what it should be, given its region or vintage or producer or grape variety--in whichever sense you declared it canonical.

I have zero experience with Pesquera. I know it is a very highly regarded estate in Ribera del Duero in Spain. It certainly commands very high prices, which is why I've never bought or tasted any. That being said, I'd think 15 years is really pushing it for any Spanish wine with a 'tinto' designation. 'Crianza', 'Reserva', or 'Gran Reserva' I would expect to last longer. Certainly 15 years old is when a classic (canonical) Rioja gran reserva would be just hitting its stride.

Salut,

-Paul W.

The term 'canon' in art and literature means the "established and universally agreed upon body of work in the area".

Yes, I know what it means. And I also know that certain works by the Brontës belong to the western literary canon. And I still dislike them. What I wonder is why Bernard seems to say that I have to like them? And then I draw a parallel with this being a canonic wine in exactly that sense.

Otto,
You do not have to like a work that is in the "canon", as that is not its point.

You wrote, "And I think, but am not sure, that I dislike the idea of canonical works whether they be in the arts or in wines."

I have a slightly different use of the word "canon" than Paul. The canon are works that have significant influence in shaping culture, including the particular art form. As such, these works are typically the core of educational curricula. The category "canon" exists as an operational definition for pedagogical purposes. By historical analysis, a core of each art canon is beyond dispute. One may debate whether certain works are deserved of that classification, but the influential pedigree of many "canonical" works is well-documented.

If you reflect on the works of art that you like, I am certain that you will find many that are considered part of the canon. It is essentially impossible to not have been shaped in your likes and dislikes by the canon.

On the other hand, one can develop preferences for wine without having ever tried famous benchmarks of the genre. This is because wine, unlike art, comes with an expiration date. And the unavailability of benchmark wines to a broad audience for pedagogical use means that the values of a wine canon is, at best, elitist.

As for Pesquera, it is certainly an important producer in Ribera. In a narrow sense, Pesquera belongs in the Ribera wine canon, if one is willing to accept that the category of canon should be so finely targeted. But I don't really see the historic significance for Pesquera as a pedagogical example, even in the study of Spanish wine. After all, has Pesquera show shaped the Spanish wine industry or the palate for a certain style that we cannot understand Spanish or Ribera wines without using them as an example?