Clearing my desk, I find the Espace Vin Pirard tasting programme which reminds me that I have forgotten to write up any notes. This is a serious wine merchant located at Genappe just south of the Waterloo battlefield. Thanks to the enthusiasm of grand-father Pirard, they are almost unique in the French speaking part of Belgium in offering a range of German wines and not the least, since von Schubert, Egon Müller and Bürklin-Wolf are amongst their suppliers. German wines a hard sell here partly because of the prevalent francophilia and partly because the off-dry style is not well regarded. I fear that when grand-father finally retires this range may disappear.
I concentrate here on the highlights. Outstanding for me this Spring was undoubtedly –
Maximin Grünhaus (“MG”), represented by Dr. Carl von Schubert
I have noticed that these Pirard tastings concentrate increasingly on entry level wines but I was struck by how the Grünhaus wines shone in this category; all QPR! or QPR!!
MG Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken 2007 – (€13) - was delicate, fragrant, mineral and crisp; 16/20.
MG Riesling Feinherb QbA 2008 – (€12) – was almost dry; more mineral and more crisp in its acidity than the previous; delicious 16/20.
MG Bruderberg QbA 2009 – (€13) – was somewhat rounder and perhaps less focussed but still nicely crisp; 15.5/20.
And then to prove what this QbAs can achieve with maturity Dr. von Schubert pulled out from under table MG Herrenberg QbA 1990 (not for sale). It was amazing to witness the extra dimension the wine had acquired; delicately rich and complex aromas, gentle sweetness, velvety texture enlivened by fine acidity and good complexity; 16.5+++.
In conversation Dr. von Schubert remarked on how well some of his wines from “off” vintages can age with special reference to a 1974 Spätlese which he claims to now show better than its 1971 equivalent, probably due to rigorous selection of the grapes from the best sites which would go into higher categories in “good” vintages.
Because I need to make inroads into my inventory of great German wines (Dönnhoff, von Schubert, Prüm, Zilliken, Haart, Loosen, Bürklin-Wolf, etc.), I always ask German producers their advice on pairing their off-dry wines with food and here he gave the surprisingly unconventional tip that the delicate richness of a wine like the 1990 would be a much better foil for high iodine oysters than a bone dry wine, which would tend to be hardened. More mainstream suggestions were delicately spiced oriental dishes and rich fish and chicken preparations.
René Muré, Rouffach, Alsace
This excellent estate runs a négociant business under the label René Muré for entry level wines whilst estate grown wines, mostly crus, are sold as Clos Saint-Landelin. None of the latter were on show except one under the counter (see below).
I tasted the range of négociant wines, known as “Signature”, which covered the full palette of Alsatian varieties, except Sylvaner. They were priced between €7 and €10 and were attractive easy drinking displaying decent varietal character, which I would rate 14.5/20 to 15/20. The Riesling (€10) showed notably more crispness and minerality. Good QPR without excitement.
Thomas Muré seemed to regret the lack of crus officially on show and pulled out Riesling Clos Saint-Landelin grand cru Vorburg 2007 (€23). Far from its peak it showed much greater substance and complexity accompanied by minerals and crisp acidity; 16/20 with +++ potential.
I mentioned that, on my way to Italy, I sometimes stay at the Cheval Blanc at Westhalten close to Rouffach and got a warm invitation to come and taste their full GC range.