WTN: Two Rheinhessen trockener Rieslings

Today I tried two Rieslings from a "cult" producer (says the importer) whom I hadn't heard of before (and nor did I follow how these two properties are related). Amazingly I liked them, though I prefer the style with RS in it. The Battenfeld-Spanier was truly a lovely wine and was the first German Riesling trocken that I have fallen in love with. I must try to find a bottle to drink with dinner to see if my infatuation lasts.

Spanier-Gillot Riesling Kalkglimmer 2008 - Rheinhessen
12% abv; c.16€; under screw cap. More obvious than the lovely Battenfeld-Spanier, but a very enjoyable wine. Also very mineral, but despite the lower alcohol, it seems to have riper fruit aromas. Crisp, dry palate but just like the Battenfeld-Spanier this isn't the charmless trocken style I usually see, but is very lovable. But this isn't as ethereal and pure as the B-S. But it is cheaper! A very nice wine.

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Mölsheim Riesling Riesling "S" 2008 - Rheinhessen
13% abv; c.20€. For the first time in my experience, I get the aromatic complexity of the sweeter styles of German Riesling in a dry wine. And also for the first time in my experience, I love a Trocken and don't have to make excuses for a lack of RS. Elegant lime aromas, much rocks. Full bodied but not powerful like Alsace instead it is delicate and floral and very charming like the non-trockener styles in Germany at best are. Long and stony finish. Lovely wine.

[David M. Bueker]

I clearly do not belong that that cult. Never heard of either.

I clearly do not belong that that cult. Never heard of either.

The importer is probably a member.

The importer is probably a member.

It seems so. But strange to see that so few Riesling fanatics have heard of this property. From these two samples, I am certainly keen to try more from them.

Hi, folks,

I've not been here for a while and just happened to come across this thread by chance while doing some research on Battenfeld-Spanier.

Hans-Oliver Spanier is, indeed, one of the brightest young stars of the Rheinhessen, and indeed all of Germany, as I've been informing my readers for some time. He makes the wines at his family's estate and also Kühling-Gillot. Battenfeld-Spanier is in the southwestern portion of Rheinhessen and Kühling-Gillot is near Nackenheim with holdings in Nackenheim, Nierstein, and Oppenheim. Spanier-Gillot is a negociant operation with bought-in grapes. Should you come across the wines under any of the three names, they are certainly worthy of your interest, and more.

Best regards,
Claude Kolm

I should have added that both Battenfeld-Spanier and Kühling-Gillot are VDP members. The fact that they are virtually unknown in the US is tribute to the fact that two (perhaps three) importers dominate the U.S. scene (certainly, no criticism of their portfolios intended). Some of the greatest producers in Germany have little or no presence in the U.S. Germany remains the one country where if you want to start up importing, you can put together a world-class collection because many great producers are unrepresented here.

But strange to see that so few Riesling fanatics have heard of this property.

Ignorant about this producer as well. Maybe some more notes will pop up after mid-September.

Diva-Deutschland represents them. Out here, AH Imports in Lodi, CA is the importer. Not sure if there is really very much of the wine sold in the U.S. -- which is a pity, but at least they've got representation here, which is more than one can say about many other very top grade producers from Germany.

Thanks for the info, Claude. It would be nice to see you contribute more often as I respect what you have to say.

Hi Otto -

Thank you for the great notes. Like David and Salil, I have not had anything from either of these producers yet, but they do seem to be well-regarded in Germany from what I have read. Domaine Select Wine Estates imports both Battenfield-Spanier and Kuhling-Gillot, but although DSWE is distributed in Massachusetts and New York, I have never seen any of these wines to try. If I find a bottle, I will certainly give it a try.

As for how the properties are related: H.O. Spanier (Battenfield-Spanier) and Carolin Gillot-Spanier (Kuhling-Gillot) are married. I would figure that the Kalkglimmer is one of their projects, then - maybe using grapes from both of their properties? (note the combined name)