Savennières Bécherelle 1998 – Nicolas Joly – Alc. 13.5%, certified biodynamic by Ecocert. Joly’s wines are always full of character but sometimes bad character. I was lucky here. Quite deep yellow with complex aromas which included white flowers, wax, quince and a touch of botrytis, I think. Medium/full bodied, generous, long and analytically quite dry, I guess, but giving a burnished impression of some sweetness trying to burst with smooth acidity and decent minerality; great served at 14-15°C with lobster; 16/20+++.
Pétalos Bierzo 2007 – Descendientes de J. Palacios – Alc. 14% - 100% Mencia. About a year ago I wrote this was a disappointment after the 2006. Its fruit was less brightly focussed and tangy and the oak ageing was much more obvious; quite blandly international; at most 15/20. It has improved with better defined rich dark fruit with a lot of cherry and improved oak integration but remains less well focussed and elegant than my memory of 2006; 15.5/20.
Domaine de Courteillac Bordeaux Supérieur 2006 – Dominique Meneret, Ruch – Alc.13.5%- (€10), from Merlot 70%, CabFranc 10%, CabSauv 20%. This wine, a good Saint-Émilion ringer, is a QPR stand-by from our nearest serious wine merchant. I think that this 2006 is drinking better at present than the more closed, structured and oaky 2005. Quite full bodied, rich and juicy without being jammy with a velvety feel, good grip and decent tannic structure; 16/20 QPR!!
Rully 1er cru “Les Cloux” 1999 – H. et P. Jacqueson – Alc. 13% - 100% Pinot Noir - started off by impressing me by some quite rich yet fresh and bright Pinot fruit on a medium weight body, linear shape and good resolved tannic structure but I became increasingly troubled by some aromatic impurity akin to a touch of boiled cabbage. I usually very much like the Jacquesons’ wines so I hope that this is just an “off” bottle; 14/20.