2004 Philippe Faury, Côte-Rôtie:
13% alcohol, $40; absolutely textbook C-R nose with red fruit, olive and ash – really, with this nose, it could be from nowhere else; similar in the mouth with good balance and nuance – so utterly of its place as to be unmistakable. A good wine that demonstrates its terroir as well as any wine could.
(Aside: I tasted it next to a bottle of our 2008 syrah – an attempt to compare the two and also to try to figure out if we should release ours soon. Of course, there is no comparison – our wine is different in aroma, flavor, texture and lacks the stamp of the “roasted slope.” But oddly, I enjoyed ours more. I don’t doubt my own bias in saying that but I’m also a little shocked that I should have such a clear example of C-R in front of me and still like another syrah more. Diane felt the same. I’ll have to think on that a bit.)
2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph:
Completely closed and too attenuated on the palate to be enjoyable. I have had several bottles of this since release and this is the first to show closed.
Dinner with friends:
First course:
Smoked salmon spread on crackers and pistachios:
2009 Baudry, Chinon Rosé:
This is a bright, balanced and beautifully flavorful wine that matched the food well – I think it is as versatile as any wine without bubbles can be. Everyone loved it. 13% abv.
Second course:
Roasted radishes on olive bread (recent NY Times recipe):
2006 Inman, Pinot Gris:
The hit of the evening with a spicy delivery, plenty of cut and a lingering, almost savory, finish. The radishes are dressed with an anchovy sauce and this paired nicely, neither overwhelming nor being lost to, the sauce. 13.2% abv.
Third course:
Mushroom risotto:
2005 de Villaine, Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine:
Showed a bit stretched and angry but responded to the food well even if it is somewhat closed right now. 12.5% abv.
After dinner:
2007 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Dry Stack Vnyd.:
Although I prefer to have our wines with food, this was flavorful, smooth and round and maybe the best showing it’s had absent eats. 13.9% abv.
Best, Jim
