Possibly stupid question

In the past couple of weeks, I have opened up two aged white wines -- Chateau Épiré 2000 Savennières "Cuvée Spéciale and Pépière 2002 Muscadet Clos des Briords -- and both were heavily oxidized, smelling and tasting like funky sherry. A year or so ago, I opened a Baumard 1997 Savennières Clos du Papillon and had the same problem. Now, I know most white wines are supposed to be drunk young, but numerous tasting notes on this site and elsewhere make clear that each of these should be exceptions to that rule.

Hence my possibly stupid question -- could this be a consequence of these wines being stored for four or five years in a passive basement cellar that maintains an ideal temperature for eight months of year or so, but warms to the low-70s during summer? I have had plenty of reds at 10-15 years of age that seemed to have aged beautifully despite my cellar's imperfections. But perhaps whites are a lot more sensitive to temperature fluctuations of 10-15 degrees or so.

Or is there something about oxidation in white wines that's more of a crapshoot in terms of bottle variation or some other phenomenon and would exist on some level regardless of storage conditions? (Here I must confess to having failed to follow some of the threads on premox that have appeared here.)

Either way, I imagine I should just drink wines like these younger (or invest in a temperature control device for the cellar), but I would be interested in people's thoughts and insights on this frustrating matter.

Thanks in advance.

Bruce,
As long as your basement doesn't have sudden swings in temperature, I don't think that this is the reason for the oxidation. Perhaps this is more related to the wines in question. I seem to recall reading something on white Burgs that touched on this subject and one conclusion, I believe, was heavy use of sulphur. I'm sure that others here will have some further thoughts on this.

Norm

Bruce,
There are several possible answers. I am unsure that the '97 Baumard wasn't showing as it's supposed to, but the '02 Clos de Briords definitely shouldn't be as oxidized as you found it. It could be a faulty cork or it could be the result of heat damage at any point in its transit from winery to you. I don't think that your cellar is the source of the problem, however.

Sorry about your experiences,
Mark Lipton

Echoing Norm and Mark, Bruce.

Unfortunately, you don't know what happened to your wines before you acquired them. The transit/shipping, the distributor and the retailer may not have handled them as well as they should. Who knows?

They certainly shouldn't be that way,though.

I would seriously doubt their situation is in any way related to the brouhaha around the white burgundies. That is---purportedly---involved with the way of making the wine in Burgundy, and has no relationship to this situation, I think.

But your cellar, as described, should not have been in any way the culprit.

Various sites and blogs talk about Savennieres oxidization..from certain domaines that is. The Pepiere was definately off!!

Just my one cent worth.

I'm surprised the Muscadet showed oxidation, but the chenin blanc grape of the Savennieres is prone to go through shut-down periods when it'll come across as being oxidized, but may not actually be. Sometimes. it really is a crapshot until you get to that point where the wine blossoms, but seems to occur more in the mid-years (5-10) before coming out again. Then again, 2000 was not a great year for Loire, so, perhaps the wine really is bad?

I seem to recall reading something on white Burgs that touched on this subject and one conclusion, I believe, was heavy use of sulphur. I'm sure that others here will have some further thoughts on this.

Unless I have misunderstood horribly, it is the oposite - a fashionably light use of sulphur is one of the suspected causes. Sulphites tend to mop up oxygen, which is one of the reasons they are used.

steve is correct. it is the under use of sulphur that causes oxidative reactions. let me guess that you are particularly sensitive the oxidation in white wines - have been listening to others expound on the virtues of older whites - and are now surprised that your experience is at odds with theirs. welcome to my world.

Thanks! This information is really helpful. And reassuring that my cellar might not be the culprit.

the '02 Clos de Briords definitely shouldn't be as oxidized as you found it

Yes, I was really surprised. I had an '06 Briords not too long ago that was outstanding and I've never had a problem with their regular Muscadets -- or anyone else's -- either.

Unfortunately, you don't know what happened to your wines before you acquired them.

I've thought of that as well. The Pepiere and Epire both came from Chambers Street, which I assume takes extra precautions, as, I assume, do Dressner and Lynch, their respective importers. The Baumard's source I'm less sure of.

the chenin blanc grape of the Savennieres is prone to go through shut-down periods when it'll come across as being oxidized, but may not actually be. Sometimes. it really is a crapshot until you get to that point where the wine blossoms, but seems to occur more in the mid-years (5-10) before coming out again.

Interesting you mention that. Looking back at my past notes, I had a '96 Baumard (the regular bottling, not the butterfly) in 2006 that seemed very oxidized to me. One year later, I opened another bottle, and this was outstanding with no trace of oxidation. I remember being confused by that but you may have given me the explanation.

let me guess that you are particularly sensitive the oxidation in white wines

Could be, though for what it's worth, I'm incredibly insensitive to wines being corked. Not that the two are related.

One thing I will say is that while oxidative smells and tastes in chenins bear some resemblance to the funky/wet wool/cheesy elements that seem inherent in the grape and that I normally enjoy, they did seem completely out of place in the Muscadet.

We usually go 5-6 years on a well made Savennières . I know they are supposed to go much longer, but we have always found them fine at that stage.

I seem to recall reading something on white Burgs that touched on this subject and one conclusion, I believe, was heavy use of sulphur. I'm sure that others here will have some further thoughts on this.

Unless I have misunderstood horribly, it is the oposite - a fashionably light use of sulphur is one of the suspected causes. Sulphites tend to mop up oxygen, which is one of the reasons they are used.

Thanks for correcting me, Steve, i should have brushed up on my basic chemistry!