1996 Dom Perignon
Oh baby. Many champagnes do not distinguish themselves on the nose, but this one clearly signals what is ahead. Gorgeous layers of toasted brioche and roasted nuts, spices and acacia blossoms. The palate introduces almost honeyed white fruit – not heavy at all. This is elegant, fresh and fine despite its size and weight. 16+
1996 Krug
A complete contrast – and easily less pleasurable to drink at this point. There is so much raw power here – marmite - check, toast - check, yeast - check; but what makes the shopping list of flavours spectacular is the way that they are merged, integrated, tight and controlled. 17+
2000 Leflaive Bienvenue Batard Montrachet
There is a fair amount of expensive oak still poking out the nose, and to me this detracted from the wine. While there is a fair chance this will integrate once mature, I’m not certain that this will ever come together as well as for example the 1996. Hints of tropical fruit, broad scents and flavours almost masking the traditional honeysuckle. Spice, mineral and plenty of oak fill the palate. I would leave this for a couple more years. 12
1996 Prieur Montrachet
There was an initial concern that the wine may be oxidised due to its rather deep colour – fortunately that was not the case. Flower, minerals and roasted nuts lead off on the nose. The flavours pan out to gravelly chalky notes, nuttiness holding firm, while hints of even red fruits dance about. Very well delineated, long long finish. 15
2004 L’Oustal Blanc Minervois Rouge
Odd smoky confected nose with some harsh tar. Cherry and spicy pepper on the palate, overall with a sense of over-extraction. Not quite clean, it’s a shame that the finish lasts as long as it does. I am not generally a fan of high-proportion Grenache wine so perhaps I’m being too harsh. It’s not necessarily (just like Earth is not necessarily the only planet with intelligent life), just a wee way away from what I like. 7?
1982 Penfolds Grange
This was at the perfect maturity point for me for a Grange. Dense sweet dark berry and plum fruit is supported by secondary and tertiary complexity – leather, brambles, bit of rust and dust. Tannins have subsided but there is good structure. Possibly the best vintage of Grange to open now. 15
1990 Chave Hermitage
Well there’s always one isn’t there. Just when you thought that you’ve had some really good wines, along comes one that steps up to another level. This is so “light” to drink and beautifully integrated. The lightness doesn’t come from any lack of weight – indeed there’s heaps of it – but rather the balance. Medicinal, horse box, tar and dried fruit. Smoke and blood and ooooh it’s just so good. 18
2000 Pichon Baron
A bit of infanticide really – though kind of in line with the first couple of wines of the night. Surprisingly open and in a good place to drink already, which isn’t to say that it won’t last (except when caused by lack of discipline). This is great ripe Pauillac – saddle and cedar, black currant, liquorice and heather. I would prefer a more nuanced and floral nose, but that will probably come with age. Very concentrated and the structure providing mere support to the generous flavours rather than imposing itself. 14+
1985 L’Evangile (Pomerol)
The new and then the old. Very different from the previous Bdx. This seems perfectly evolved now, with lots of Merlot charm. The fruit is more towards the red than the black spectrum, savoury and fruitbread notes supporting exactly as you would expect. 14
1997 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi
Dark colour and burly surly nose. Which doesn’t give a lot away other than tar and parsimonious glimpses of fruit. The tight compact palate shows great intensity – cherries, more tar, coffee grounds. The wine is uninclined to uncoil just at the moment. All the raw materials are there, and indeed it feels like the raw materials of neighbouring countries have also been plundered. Another 20 years would help. 15+
1986 Yquem
Interesting fruit salad mix on the nose with even a hint of vanilla accompaniment. Dense but not overly weighty palate, nuts also coming out to play. Good acidity and structure. 15
Note on scoring:
1 – 5 points: bad wine
6 – 10 points: good wine
11 – 15 points: excellent wine
16 – 20 points: spectacularly fantastic wine