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WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

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WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by Salil » Thu May 13, 2010 2:08 am

Five of us from our local tasting group got together at Nini's bistro in New Haven for dinner. Had an excess of wine (with a number of unopened bottles as well), though a very fun evening with good friends and some very interesting wines at a nice setting.

NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
Faintly oxidative aromatics of fresh bread, butterscotch, baked apple and toasted nuts but in the mouth it's incredibly fresh, streamlined and elegant with bright effervescence, rich white fruited and baked apple flavours over minerals and yeasty elements with really good acidity keeping it very precise. Lovely.

2009 Domaine de L'Idylle Vin de Savoie Cruet
Jason mentioned this was bought from Garagiste; I can imagine the aromatics alone would have led to a fairly hype-filled email. Starts out with a lovely Chablis-like scent that has barely a hint of fruit, just an intense oyster shell minerality and seawater aromas; in the mouth it's very light on its feet though slightly austere with fresh pear and cucumber flavours over a bed of minerals, finishing a little short and tart though. Very enjoyable, though more fun to smell than drink.

2002 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers
Not quite premoxed, but this seems to be on the way - there's some ripe white fruit accented by smoky and earthy elements, but it's marred by an underlying oxidative element that becomes stronger with a little air in the glass, lacking precision or clarity.

1995 Noël Verset Cornas
Starts out with a faintly musty scent that had me worried about cork taint, but that cleared with some air. Really outstanding stuff, combining earth, pork, olive, herbal and saline flavours seamlessly on a frame that's very elegant and silken-textured with the tannins almost completely resolved.

2007 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph
A little tight and unyielding at first, but this opens out with a little patience to show incredibly vibrant, fresh flavours of freshly cracked black pepper over dark fruits with a meaty element that emerges and becomes more prevalent with time. There's a sense of real purity and elegance to the flavours here; it's incredibly young now but hard to keep away from.

2004 Agricola Punica Barrua Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
Carignan from Sardinia; served blind. This comes across as a fairly generic international-styled wine with oaky accents around ripe dark fruits, fairly low in acid with a soft, heavy mouthfeel. Boring.

1999 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira
Lovely aromatics; full of black cherry and other dark fruited flavours over tar, earth and faint floral elements. Still very young and primary in the mouth with youthful fruit, few hints of development and a firm tannic and acid spine suggesting there's still a lot of time ahead here.

1995 Château Latour à Pomerol
Striking aromatics; very fresh, high-toned and green - reminiscent of a Loire Cab Franc with intense herbal flavours and a touch of green pepper over cassis and dark fruits. Medium weight in the mouth, though a little austere with the fruit reticent and the greenness and acidity dominating, finishing long but tart.

2005 Carmes de Rieussec
Not as heavy and sweet as I find a lot of young Sauternes to be; bright floral and honeyed aromas lead into a palate full of ripe tropical fruits and apricots drenched in honey and spices, but it's well balanced with decent acids keeping the sweetness from being overwhelming and giving the flavours a nice sense of freshness.

1997 Château de Fesles Bonnezeaux
Delicious stuff; dominated by caramel, spicy and honeyed botrytised flavours over quince, mandarin orange and tropical fruits, viscous and full bodied - though remarkably well balanced for a wine of this richness and sweetness with really good acidity and serious length.
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by Jenise » Thu May 13, 2010 5:01 am

Nice line-up. Those Savoies are quite tantalizing, aren't they? I've had three or four in the past year or two and every one of them has been interesting and a relative bargain.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by David M. Bueker » Thu May 13, 2010 7:48 am

Sorry I had to miss it. The Selosse, Verset & Gonon have me salivating.
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by J Bouchard » Thu May 13, 2010 12:56 pm

Thanks for the notes Salil, your impressions matched mine on most of the bottles and gave a great picture of how the wines were. A great night of food and wine on a Wed evening. I thought the Verset and Roagna were my favorites from last night, both showing incredibly well. The aromatics on the Roagna was something I was thinking about this morning, they were great.

I was a little disappointed at the Latour a Pomerol at first, it seemed very tight and probably could have used a decant but seemed to be opening up as the night went on. I am interested to see how it will be showing tonight. The Rieussec was young but oh so good with the apple dumpling with caramel syrup and vanilla gelato. I think it has the stuffing for a good long while but was interesting to try at this early stage.

The Gonon (my first if I am remembering correctly) was very nice and packed a nice meaty punch. The Selosse was a great way to start the evening off, it makes me want to have more champagne in my cellar.

thanks to everyone who came, it was a lot of fun.

Jeff
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by David M. Bueker » Thu May 13, 2010 1:41 pm

Any insight on the food? I am really sorry I missed the chance.
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by J Bouchard » Thu May 13, 2010 4:27 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Any insight on the food? I am really sorry I missed the chance.


Here is the new menu http://www.ninisbistro.com/menu.htm I guess it changes every month.

Everything I had during my courses was very good, and as it usually is with the group, there were plenty of wines to find something delicious to pair with the food as it came out.

I had:
Sweetbreads with Morels
Veal Sweetbreads crisply sautéed and served with rich California Morel Mushroom Ragu.

Caesar Salad
Crisp Romaine tossed with our Garlicky house made dressing, Garlic croutons and a blend of 3 cheeses.

Vermont Hanger Steak
Hanger steak grilled with Vermont Maple Ancho pepper sauce and Vermont Fiddlehead and Cheddar Pie.

Warm Apple Dumpling, Caramel Syrup and Vanilla Gelato

The only thing I did not like was the vermont maple ancho pepper sauce with the hanger steak. It was marinated in it and that was fine, it was a subtle flavoring and not too bad, but there was also a lot of it surrounding the steak and it was just too much in that quantity. I had visions of Dish all over again but it wasn't that bad, just not my thing, I thinked the others who got the hanger steak liked it.

But aside from that I thought the food was great, the sweetbreads were fantastic, the salad was not over dressed which I was concerned about given the "garlicky" in the description and as I mentioned above, the sauternes and dumpling were the perfect way to cap off the evening.

It's too bad it's so far away, the drive home was a downer, but I am interested to see what else they put on the menu. I would go back, especially with the $3 corkage fee, how can you beat that?
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by Salil » Thu May 13, 2010 4:51 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Sorry I had to miss it. The Selosse, Verset & Gonon have me salivating.

You'll get to drink Gonon soon... (and I have a few extra in my cellar if you want to trade sometime ;))

Food was very good - appetizer courses were decent, the chicken with French lentils and bacon jam was excellent. Would definitely head back there.
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by David M. Bueker » Thu May 13, 2010 8:59 pm

Thanks!

I will try to make it next time - tragedy notwithstanding.
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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of wines in New Haven

by Rahsaan » Fri May 14, 2010 9:43 am

Sounds like a nice set of wines with more winners than losers. I agree that Savoie white can be fun, crisp, and refreshing, and sometimes even with some 'complexity'. But they often have a difficult time around other wines that show 'more'.

I also like the way your definition of 'local' seems to include the entire state of CT, if not all of the North East :wink:

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