WTN: Old Cal-Cabs and Bordeaux

May lunch notes

2007 Dobbes Willamette Pinot Gris – went rattling about the houses trying to place this one. A slightly green soft creamy nose, nice and crisp on palate.

2007 Puffeney Arbois Cuvee les Berangeres – a Jura wine made from Trousseau grape, this was definitely a Jenise ‘gotcha’. Medium colour, cranberries showing up on palate, a tad of heat, very pleasant and kept on changing in the glass. Jenise – no more Puff-daddy wines – unfair! This grape is also called, (no doubt after people that spring it on unsuspecting blind tasting) bastardo. It makes its way into Port as well.


1999 Castello della Paneretta Quattrocentenario – this 100% sangiovese based Tuscan IGT wine was big and dark, with only average acidity and full in the mouth, so it took awhile to get around to sangio. Super-sangio? Big slightly earthy blackberry nose and a nice full mouth feel all the way through the lengthy finish.

1983 Chasse Spleen – showing so well it was about the last of the 80s vintages we tried. Fairly dark, classic claret nose, not much tannin left, sweet entry and supple wine. Many much bigger names could do so well in this vintage.

1978 Clos du Val Cabernet – these cabs from the 70s and 80s were killer value, and I’m not sure what happened to them in more recent years. I was always a follower of Portet and never failed to stop here when down racing in California, to add a few bottles for the cellar on the way home. Still fairly dark, sweet in the nose, cocoa coming in on palate and a decent length. Much better shape that I’d have thought at this age.

2000 Alter Ego - this is Palmer’s second label, but unlike many seconds, this is quite good. Still pretty tight, with excellent colour and nose, bright with some spice, warm smooth finish with softening tannins.

2006 Fordori Granato – OK, pulling out a bastardo was one thing, but a Teroldego Rotaliano in the same tasting? A ton of stuff happening in this wine, the nose sweet and a little candied red fruit, tannin evident, and while it had decent fruit, I found it just a little hollow in the middle, finishing with a fair bit of acidity.

1991 Ch. Montelena Estate – first bottle of this I’ve opened and I’m glad I waited. The nose was a bit restrained until it aired quite a bit, but it then showed some wood and some plum. Dark wine with edges not lightening a bit yet, sweet entry, smooth and long in the mouth, with impressive power but also an elegance lacking in many Napa Cabs. Excellent and the next bottle will wait a couple of years. This is the reason I used to buy and cellar California cabs!

1998 St. Hallets The Reward – as soon as I dipped my nose into this wine, I went for Australia, and as soon as I tasted it, I went for 1998 cab, but I didn’t get the producer. Sweet warm dark wine with mint and eucalyptus in the nose, along with dark cherries and cocoa. Good length, and a good place to have put this wine.

Casal dos Jordoes 10 Year Tawny Port – browning colour, Port nose – little doubt it was a Tawny, though I thought it could have been a 20 year. Long persistent finish

I haven't had the 83 Chasse Spleen, but enjoyed the 83 Poujeaux a few years ago. I believe Moulis is just north of Margaux, and maybe shares some vintage characteristics (as you know lots of Margaux properties did well in 83).
Thanks for notes'

• 2007 Dobbes Family Estate Pinot Gris - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
  Pale straw in colour. Nose giving some citrus, lime and fresh flowers. On the palate it comes across as slightly creamy with a ton of minerality. As it sat in glass it seemed to become more pinot gris like. Good. (87 pts.)
  
  
• 2007 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau Arbois Les Berangères - France, Jura, Arbois
  Lighter red in colour. Bright red fruits on the nose with raspberry, cherry and a touch of well integrated oak. In the mouth it gives lots of cranberry with tart red berry fruits. Lighter in body. Hints of tannins, lots of acidity and good length. It’s delicious now but I think it will get better. Excellent. 90+ (90 pts.)
  
  
• 1999 Castello della Paneretta Quattrocentario Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
  Dark red in colour, brownish near the rim. Great nose that’s somewhat sweet and seemed Bordeaux-like me, but Coop guess Italy right away. Earthy with black currant, plums, cedar and some slight vegetal notes. This has a good dose of acid. After some time in the glass the notes gave hints of bell pepper. Soft and silky in the mouth. Great now but a long life ahead of it and will probably continue to improve. Excellent. 92+ (92 pts.)
  
  
• 1983 Château Chasse-Spleen - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
  Dark red with browning hue throughout. Claret nose which makes the ’99 Castello seem much less Bordeaux-like now. Great nose with bell pepper, coffee grinds some tobacco and mature red fruits. Tart red flavours on the palate. Slightly grainy mouth feel. Good amounts of acid and tannin. Drinking very well now. Excellent. (90 pts.)
  
  
• 1978 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Similar colour to the ’83 Chasse-Spleen. Sweet mature nose...so nice. Mature red fruits with leather and coffee grinds. Flavours of sweet yet mature red currants, tobacco and tea leaves. Velvety mouth feel. Still some structure left but this is probably at its peak and drinking beautifully now. Reminds me of the ’91 Dominus I had recently. Excellent. (92 pts.)
  
  
• 2000 Alter Ego de Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
  Darkest and youngest looking wine yet. On the nose lots of blackberries and plums. Palate offers more dark fruits that are tart and youthful with some noticeable heat. Spicy notes coming through on both the nose and palate. This is a big, young wine with lots of tannin and acid. Slightly riper fruits then I'd expect. Needs 5 more years before taking another look. Very good. 89+ (89 pts.)
  
  
• 2006 Foradori Granato Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
  Medium red, almost purple, with a pinkish/purple hue at the rim. Wow. This is different. If I can quote Bob... "where is the snow cone?” Pronounced nose of cotton candy and confected ripe fruits. Very ripe and artificial tasting. As other noted, this seemed to disappear on the finish. There seems to be a good amount of fruit and structure here and the potential might be there, but at this point this isn’t a wine that suits my tastes although I’m sure many would like it. Maybe this needs more time? Average. (84 pts.)
  
  
• 1991 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Dark red at the core, but slightly brownish at the rim. Nose of black and red fruits, saline, liquorice and leather. Mature red fruits on the palates with leather and earthy notes. Tannins are well integrated and there’s a healthy amount of acid. This seems to be just getting into its drinking range. Drinking very well now but will cruise for a long time. Outstanding. (93 pts.)
  
  
• 1998 St Hallett Cabernet Sauvignon The Reward - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
  Opened, double decanted back in the bottle, and then served 3 hours later. On the nose, this was easily identifiable as Australian, especially following the Montelena. Lots of developed sweet red fruits with a good dose of eucalyptus. Found the palate to be darker with blackberry and blueberry notes. Solid structure with solid tannins and medium acidity and medium length finish. This is the wine that started my serious interest in vino and it’s nice to see its still showing well. Excellent. (90 pts.)
  
  
• N.V. Casal dos Jordoes Porto Organic 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  No formal notes. Excellent. (91 pts.)

[Jenise]

May lunch notes

2007 Dobbes Willamette Pinot Gris – Provided by our host and proprietor. Surprised to see this house, one of my fave Oregon producers, in Canada. Pale, almost clear and seemingly oak free, good malolactic created a creamy texture. White flowers on the nose and Asian pear-apple fruit on the palate. A quietly powerful wine that outperforms 99% of the domestic pinot gris/grigio's I've had. Excellent.

2007 Puffeney Arbois Cuvee les Berangeres – My wine. And I recognized it immediately, even though it was much tighter than the bottle I've already had. But then this one got pop-n-poured where the one Bob and I had was put in a decanter for an hour before we touched it, and it was served here in glassware (a burg bowl would have been perfect) that did not help its divine aromatics exit the glass. About two hours later, anyone who had any left saw that the cranberry had turned into raspberry-strawberry fruit and much spice and pepper had popped out too. Will improve: needs 2-3 more years to really shine.

1999 Castello della Paneretta Quattrocentenario – Very ripe and not overtly acidic, so Italian wasn't exactly the first thought that crossed my mind. But I liked it enormously for what you called the "big slightly earthy blackberry nose and a nice full mouth feel all the way through the lengthy finish." Excellent.

1983 Chasse Spleen – Exceptional showing for this wine, very feminine with a great perfumey nose which is why Chateau Palmer was, I believe, somebody's first guess. As good a bottle as could be for this wine. Excellent.

1978 Clos du Val Cabernet – This wasn't even a Reserve, right? It's been said before, but if only Clos du Val still made wines like this.

2000 Alter Ego - Very tight with a core of primary purple and black fruit. Wouldn't touch another for five years.

2006 Fordori Granato – Grapey, grapey, grapey. Bazooka bubble gum and sweet cherry soda on the nose. Wish I'd opened it at home, then I would have given it a lot more air time and then decided not to bring it. Whatever good it might turn into (and recent reports on this very vintage were laudatory), this one is not ready to drink right out of the bottle. Sorry.

1991 Ch. Montelena Estate – My WOTL. Can't believe you've never opened one before. California cab at its very best here. Btw, I opened a 92 not long ago and it was a bit backward by comparison.

1998 St. Hallets The Reward – Like you, I only had to put my nose in the glass to say "Australia". The naysayers here who don't think you can smell a wine's origins need to do more blind tasting. This reminded me of what made me fall in love with Australian wines in the first place. All the things you describe, Bill, and I'd add both serious and classy. Easy to understand why this caught Devin's attention after years of sipping his parents' much more entry-level wines.

Casal dos Jordoes 10 Year Tawny Port – browning colour, Port nose – little doubt it was a Tawny, though I thought it could have been a 20 year. Long persistent finish

1991 Ch. Montelena Estate – My WOTL. Can't believe you've never opened one before. California cab at its very best here. Btw, I opened a 92 not long ago and it was a bit backward by comparison.

Patience, Grasshopper, is a virtue.

Also it is easier to be patient when you occasionally misplace cases of wine in the cellar.

I have an entire unopened case of the 1992 as well - based on your comment, perhaps I should continue to exercise my usual self control and wait a few more years?

For me, this is what California Cabs should be all about. You can have your 100 point purple teeth wines - Montelena doesn't rely on shock and awe to impress critics, it uses finesse and class instead.

PS - have a bottle of the 1987, wondering when.....maybe side by side with the 87 Mondavi Reserve and Opus One?

[Jenise]

I have an entire unopened case of the 1992 as well - based on your comment, perhaps I should continue to exercise my usual self control and wait a few more years?

For me, this is what California Cabs should be all about. You can have your 100 point purple teeth wines - Montelena doesn't rely on shock and awe to impress critics, it uses finesse and class instead.

PS - have a bottle of the 1987, wondering when.....maybe side by side with the 87 Mondavi Reserve and Opus One?

It's worth tasting now, but I recall a lot of youthful blackberry fruit without the leathery notes that your wine wore so well.

However, if you'd like an opinion, I would be happy to taste your '92 along with the MR and OO.