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WTN: Am I getting old? Two from Burgundy.

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Chris Kissack

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WTN: Am I getting old? Two from Burgundy.

by Chris Kissack » Fri May 07, 2010 1:40 am

They say all wine drinkers eventually turn to Burgundy. My history with the region has been rather mixed, some ethereal (or at least very good) bottles, quite a few stinkers too. But last night I drank a very good Nuits-St-Georges, and recently in Bordeaux (of all places - the horror!) I had the pleasure of drinking two very good wines from the region. Am I finally "turning to Burgundy"? Has my time come? Is this related to the amount of grey hairs on my head? Does this mean I am getting old? Or is the pricing of Bordeaux 2009 having a subliminal effect on my palate? Help! :D

Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts 2001: Cathiard owns 4.5 hectares in 11 appellations, including 0.74 hectares in Malconsorts. This wine has a nicely maturing hue, with meaty fruit on the nose, and a wonderful and expansive perfume. Great definition on the palate, a vigorous style, mineral, with plenty of bright structure underpinning the body of the wine. Fine, maturing fruit, broad, overall defined and vigorous. Such life! And I am sure it will go for many years in the cellar yet. 17.5+/20

Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot 1985: From a magnum. Proprietor François Labet owns a considerable section of the Clos Vougeot, 6 hectares in a T-shaped section along the northern edge, where the chateau is situated. A very mature hue here. Lovely maturity on the nose, with aromas of finely filed iron and bloody beef. Precise, minerally too. A good substance on the palate, broad with lots of structure, still showing a good tannic backbone too. Spicy, a touch grippy, with good flesh on its bones, this is a delicious wine for current drinking....although it still has the substance and structure to keep going in the cellar for now. 17.5/20

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