Pomerols (and Pomerol-type wines)
Apiary Restaurant, NYC
05/03/2010
A small group of 4 dined together at Apiary, a very good East Village restaurant, and the loose theme was Pomerols (or Pomerol-type wines). Leo organized the tasting and generously brought the majority of the wines. The wines that were consumed at this dinner provided for, imho, a very high level of drinking satisfaction. The food at Apiary, from the appetizers to the wonderful cheese course, did not disappoint and were well-matched with the wines. My grilled/basted Octopus appetizer and Pork Chop entrée were both very good. I’d like to try the chicken entrée the next time around, as Ben (Eneff) told us how much he enjoyed his and it did look really good.
The wines:
2006 Jadot Chevalier-Monrachet “Les Demoisselles” Gran Cru, Burgundy
A grand way to initiate, as Leo uncorked and poured this for each of us.
A very complex nose that changed from one pour to the next. Breathtaking bouquet showing floral, candied fruit, pastry, paint, seabreeze, and on and on and on it goes. On the palate, power meets elegance with citrus, hard candy, steel, confection. Its pronounced richness is obvious, but the overall balance maintains its torrid love affair with the taste buds. Simply outstanding. A
2001 Chateau Hossana, Pomerol
The first of the Pomerols.
Leafy and earthy nose gives way to ripeness, with waves of blue fruit dominating the beginning and the middle, which subsides and ends with red fruit at the back end. The mid-weight wine, I was told, was double decanted earlier in the day, but still showed to be tannic. B+
1999 Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol
Talk about over-aboundance in complexity in both the nose and the palate … this wine was certainly up there. There was wood, milk, fresh meat, baking spices on the stunning nose. The wine was big and tannic, but complemented by a very nice level high of acidity. Over time, the muscular wine showed off some finesse with emerging sweet lean fruit, some mint, and espresso. Compared to the other Pomerols in this tasting, it was obvious that this wine belonged to a different, higher league. A very long finish. Excellent. A
1990 Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol
Slightly subdued on the nose, but with coaxing showed some fruit cake, ripe fruit, cigar and herbs. This was also one of my Bordeaux epiphany wines and this bottle continued to show the nicely-defined layers of red and black fruit that melded well with the classic, imho, Pomerol traits that I like. Sexy and silky smooth. Nicely complemented my entrée. A-
1985 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol
Smelled some tobacco, some chocolate, and leather. I noted some greenness and the presence of tea. La Conseillante remains one of my favored Bordeaux producer, but this bottle did not impress me as much as the other wines in this tasting. B-
2001 Sophia Gimblet Gravels, New Zealand
My sparse notes on the name/location of the wine and it’s producer shows how little I know about New Zealand wines. However, this is clearly a case where I wish I had known this wine before. I liked the nose with the cigar, the wood and the earthiness. The wine was tannic but still revealed a somewhat Old World styled structure with nice lean fruit. Lots of merlot but showed notes of Cabernet Franc. Quite a big wine with a good tasty finish. A-
1999 Benzinger Sonoma County Reserve Merlot, Sonoma (served blind)
Leo, as has been his ways in all the wine-tastings that I had the pleasure of joining him at, brought a bottle wrapped in aluminum foil. It seems that I was the only one who attempted a guess, and I shouldn’t have as I was way off with my Italian merlot suggestion. Lots of eucalyptus, oak, fruit and some mushroom notes. High level of sweet fruit and was just slightly lighter bodied than the other reds. A credible merlot that I would purchase if offered to me at a right price. B+
1989 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines, Barsac
Brownish in color, the wine showed to be just off its peak drinking form. Candied pineapple, brown sugar, cinnamon. A short-medium length finish. B
Ramon