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WTN: von Schubert Theater

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Oswaldo Costa

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WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue May 04, 2010 7:24 am

On successive nights, two levels from this storied monopole.

2007 von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling MSR QbA Trocken 10.0%
Lovely wet slate, buttery lime and white flower näse. Very light spritz, ripe body, adequate acid/sweet balance (could use a touch more acid), ending with pleasant tartness. Gushy fun, with a serious streak that converts fun into pleasure. At less than $14, can’t imagine many better QPRs.

2007 von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Spätlese MSR 8.5% AP 3 536 014-29-08
Lush floral nose, augmented retronasally by yummy grapefruit and peach. Not as minerally as the QbA. Before food, strong acidity upfront, but opulent, honeyed sweetness catches up my mid-palate and overwhelms it in the finish. With food, the acidity subsides further, but the fruit is so rich and stately that I quit quibbling and revel. Pedigree chow.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Rahsaan » Tue May 04, 2010 8:45 am

Oswaldo Costa wrote:2007 von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling MSR QbA Trocken 10.0%(could use a touch more acid)...


Interesting. I have one more bottle of the 07 Abtsberg Spätlese trocken but was hesitant to open it because the last time I opened a bottle the problem was definitely not a lack of acid. Rather, it was boringly tart. At least to me.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Tim York » Tue May 04, 2010 8:49 am

This one of my favourite German estates, which I have visited three or four times. Such elegant wines :D .Carl von Schubert was a visitor at a recent tasting near here and, for me, was the star of an otherwise worthy but not very inspiring bunch. You remind me that I should write it up; his contribution at least.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue May 04, 2010 8:51 am

Rahsaan wrote:
Oswaldo Costa wrote:2007 von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling MSR QbA Trocken 10.0%(could use a touch more acid)...


Interesting. I have one more bottle of the 07 Abtsberg Spätlese trocken but was hesitant to open it because the last time I opened a bottle the problem was definitely not a lack of acid. Rather, it was boringly tart. At least to me.


You quoted from the QbA to comment on the Spätlese, which seemed to have more acid than the QbA, at least upfront... I dug the tartness. If it didn't require a trip to the Loire, I'd propose a swap.

Tim York wrote:This one of my favourite German estates, which I have visited three or four times. Such elegant wines :D .Carl von Schubert was a visitor at a recent tasting near here and, for me, was the star of an otherwise worthy but not very inspiring bunch. You remind me that I should write it up; his contribution at least.


Curious to hear your take on the 07s, if they were part of the tasting.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Tim York » Tue May 04, 2010 9:03 am

Oswaldo Costa wrote:
Curious to hear your take on the 07s, if they were part of the tasting.


He only showed one, a Herrenberg Kabinett trocken, and my manuscript note says "Delicate, crisp, fragrant". I came back from his place in successive years with assorted dozens of both of 2007s and 2008s. I thought what I tasted there in the first year was delicious in different styles, 08 being notably crisper in higher in acidity. An 07 Kabinett at home was delicious about 18 months ago but I can't recall opening many since because I am concerned about their being in a closed phase.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue May 04, 2010 9:05 am

Will look for the 08s, then, since the slight lack of acidity that was my only (minor) complaint may not be present there... Do you know if they inhibit malos with SO2?
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 04, 2010 9:14 am

Inhibition of malo is a filtration process to get all the little bugs out Oswaldo. The SO2 is a preservative and insurance against refermentation should any little guys still be in the bottle. This is pretty standard practice in German Riesling.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue May 04, 2010 9:25 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Inhibition of malo is a filtration process to get all the little bugs out Oswaldo. The SO2 is a preservative and insurance against refermentation should any little guys still be in the bottle. This is pretty standard practice in German Riesling.


Interesting, I had understood that the average German riesling gets more SO2 (than, say, the average French white) for the express purpose of inhibiting malos to keep the acidity high enough to counter the higher rs.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 04, 2010 9:28 am

The filtration is the primary mechanism for preventing further fermentations. SO2 is a necessary security blanket.

German Riesling is that lovely creature that dispels many dogmatic myths, though some are grabbing at dogma in an effort to salvage worthy producers/sites that have sadly fallen off the public's radar.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue May 04, 2010 9:33 am

David, I take it you're not a huge fan of this producer, since I don't find any recent notes of yours on them. Salil likewise.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Rahsaan » Tue May 04, 2010 11:38 am

Oswaldo Costa wrote:You quoted from the QbA to comment on the Spätlese, which seemed to have more acid than the QbA, at least upfront...


I might have thought otherwise, but nice that these bottles are being opened..
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 04, 2010 10:27 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:David, I take it you're not a huge fan of this producer, since I don't find any recent notes of yours on them. Salil likewise.


Actually Oswaldo, we're both big fans, but for myself I prefer the wines with a lot of bottle age, so young ones rarely get opened. There's a note on an '83 Auslese lurking about from December. I am not thinking of opening the bulk of my 2001s for at least 10 more years.
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Joe Moryl » Tue May 04, 2010 10:43 pm

We pulled the cork on the '97 Abstberg Spaetlese recently with great anticipation, but were fairly disappointed. Fairly deep gold, petrol and apple juice. Nice, but not much to get excited about. Storage at 55F since release, too. Oh well, I hope the '01 is better.....
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Re: WTN: von Schubert Theater

by Salil » Tue May 04, 2010 10:53 pm

Shame about your '97. The last one I had recently wasn't much better - opened the '97 Herrenberg Auslese with David and Laura Bueker some time ago, which certainly had stuffing and a sense of nice acidity - except that it was corked. [Though your bottle certainly doesn't sound like what I'd imagine to be representative - David B. had also opened a '97 Herrenberg Kabinett for me a while ago that was fantastic.]

Oswaldo, I will happily drink Grunhaus any time - my issue is that I don't see it often in a price range I'd be happy with - Crush had some '06 Abtsberg Spatlese for $19 a year+ ago and the aforementioned '97 Herrenberg Auslese, both of which I bought - otherwise most of my German buying has been mostly from the same three merchants whose inventories tend to lean towards mostly Theise, Wiest and Mosel Wine Merchants imports (with the other odd stuff Crush brings in occasionally). I really enjoy the wines, but don't 'miss' having them in my cellar - as there are so many other fine names around Germany at comparable quality that I buy instead.

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