Coteaux du Loir “Haut Rasné” 2002 – Domaine de Bellivière, Éric Nicolas – Alc. 13.5%. This wine is described on the estate’s website as a “moelleux” coming from young vines grown on a site favourable to the development of botrytis. I placed the wine after a dessert consisting of a fresh fruit tart and in that position the first thing which struck us was that the wine was not very sweet. Germaine expressed frank disappointment at its lack of lusciousness. It was much more at home next day filling the role of a demi-sec with some goat cheeses.
Colour was less deep than a lot of moelleux and the nose was quite subdued but revealed attractive aromas of quince, white flowers and wax. The palate was well focussed with white fruit, bright minerals, lively acidity and some mildly underlying sweetness towards the finish; I could detect no botrytis. Perhaps a touch simple in profile, maybe due to the young vines or to its being partially closed or a bit of both and it does not hold a candle to Foreau’s Vouvray demi-sec from the same year. A very nice wine, though; 16/20.
Barolo Vigna dei Pola 1997 – Ascheri, Poderi de Rivalta di La Morra – Verduno – Alc.14%. Germaine found this wine tight and aromatically closed. I liked it better than that with its robust body and savoury red fruit but it was more austere than I was expecting from 1997 and was showing less rose petal and tar nuances than I expect for the full Barolo magic; 15.5/20.
Faugères Magnoux 2007 – Domaine Saint Antonin – Alc. 15%!! – (€13). After an October tasting, I wrote “it was made from old vine, low yield Syrah 70%, Carignan 20% and Grenache 10% and was matured 18 months in barrels (15% new). It showed more finesse, structure and depth than the previous with its tangy red fruit veering towards cherry; good now but more time would be useful; I think that this bids fair to be as good in time as the Alquier Faugères Maison Jaune and Bastides in a somewhat less polished and sophisticated vein; 16/20++ QPR!." Six months later last week it was robust body and rich, sweet, liqueur and liquorice laced fruit which struck me and, without refreshing my memory of its varietal make-up, I took it for a Grenache dominated wine. It did not cloy, however, as there was the tang and decent acidity. It is now a long way from the elegance of mature Alquier but may refine with more time; 15.5/20+.
I tried Monterrei “Alanda” 2006 Quinta da Muradella (Galicia) – Alc. 13%, from Mencia, Bastardo and Arauxa, at another Autumn tasting and was attracted by what I then described as “its unusual flavours of steely and tangy cherry with a lively medicinal hint”. It has come on a lot since then with both the steeliness and medicinal hint toned down and a spicy note coming up. Very satisfying; 16/20.