2002 Georg Breuer Brut “Porzellan” 12,5% -Rheingau, Deutschland
Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling
Impressive mousse as the fine bubbles swerve through the almost Krug-like viscosity to break the surface. This is clearly no ordinary Sekt. Peach, apple blossom, sweet brioche, butternut squash, marzipan. The fruit is amazingly fresh without even the slightest biscuity or autolytic aroma. I think that too often we (or I, rather) judge sparkling wine by its ability to imitate Champagne. Well, Champagne this is not, but it IS a very enjoyable, complex, and delicious bottle of Rheingau Sekt.
And all the while I’m thinking:
I love Champagne (and even a couple of years ago would’ve defended her reputation to the death), but I’ve come to the realization that the more of it I drink, the more I find that most of the Grandes Marques de Champagne are either excruciatingly ordinary or (even worse) just plain, outright SHIT. We’re better off drinking grower Champagne, Cremants d’Alsace or Loire, German/Austrian Sekt, or Franciacorta for an expressive and unique experience with sparkling wine. It may have always been so to a degree, but the bullshit commodity/luxury conglomerate/music industry market may have finally homogenized the wines of the region and tarnished the good name of Champagne beyond repair (at least in the eyes of the enthusiasts.) Thoughts?
Cheers,
Bill