2005 Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Romorantin 12.8%
N.V., but the fine print says 2005/6 and the cork 2005. Was thrilled to find this in São Paulo and paid the local markup because it’s hard to find in the US and doesn’t look available in New York.
Gold verging on orange, quite different from the straw of the 96 and 02 Cazins. Mildly oxidative aromas, with almonds, ferric rust and apricot. Lovely rich fruit, vibrant acidity, satisfying body. But the oxidative aspect, that grows rather than diminishes with food and rising temperature, makes it more interesting than delicious. It’s a bit maddening to not know if it’s intentional. The cork is scrawny and looks permissive (Courtois is/was known for using poor quality corks). Found no tasting notes online, but Keith Levenberg tasted an 05 Puzelat Romorantin that was also oxidative, so maybe it’s the outlaw Loire hippie style. Until further notice, Cazin remains king of the Romorantin hill. My current object of desire: the expensive ungrafted Romorantin made by Marionnet.