WTN: Havens, Baudry, and Ellner

Saturday I did beef ribs (cumin/3peppers/garlic/br.sugar rub, 90 minutes in low oven, then grilled, sauced) , roasted root veggies (kohlrabi/beet/ celeriac), and cabbage/daikon coleslaw (ok, other than ribs I was just emptying fridge). I originally thought of Zin, but ended up doing a comparison of a couple of halves of Havens. Friday a couple of friends I had split cases with during the Billington bankruptcy both said they liked the Syrahs and Merlot better the Bourriquot, thought I'd compare a couple.

2005 Havens Hudson Vineyard Syrah (Carneros)
Blackberries and vanilla oak flavors, ripe, a bit gamey. At first I liked this better, but it kind of stayed static over evening as Bourriquot developed some complexity over time. Still, not bad for a $10 half. B

2006 Havens Bourriquot (Napa)
A little tight at first, but more open than a 750 last year. Black and red plums, cocoa, a little herby note. Sometimes I think a hint of brett dancing around in the background, more of the wet horse than the dung variety. Moderate acids and tannins. Last glass is the best (open 4 hours). Good for $10/375. B/B+

Today a combination of work, house work, errands, and wine stuff. Betsy had a concert in White Plains, but I skipped. Rather than make dinner, I ordered pizza (Brooklyn style, with sausage, garlic, and broccoli rabe) and made salad for her return. She had a long week (VOX rehearsals, practicing for this concert, etc) so I open a "this week is over" celebration Champagne, the NV Charles Ellner Rose Brut. Fairly full, medium mousse, decent acids. Strawberries and cherries, a little brioche. A bit creamy in texture. B+

The pizza wine (hey, it doesn't HAVE to be Italian!) was the 2007 Baudry Chinon (estate bottling). Nice middleweight, red fruit, tobacco leaf, a little barnyard earth. Maybe not quite as defined as I remember from a previous bottle. B

By the way, the Chinon was good with pizza, but the Champagne even better.


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  

[David M. Bueker]

Champagne with pizza! I like it!

just tried to drink the Baudry last night - well the les granges bottling. also opened a red Saumur from dom de St. Juste - both '07's. threw them both out - way too much brett - don't know what they are thinking. settled in with a Joguet cuvee terroir '05. good stuff - still young; but at least cleanly made. read on the michelin website about a Clos Rougeard - Saumur - supposedly a great wine. anyone familiar?

read on the michelin website about a Clos Rougeard - Saumur - supposedly a great wine. anyone familiar?

Yes. Which bottling are you looking at? They're all good, for different reasons/ages/prices of course. The Poyeux and Bourg are more polished than Baudry but far from tricked-out or modern.

just tried to drink the Baudry last night - well the les granges bottling. also opened a red Saumur from dom de St. Juste - both '07's. threw them both out - way too much brett - don't know what they are thinking. settled in with a Joguet cuvee terroir '05. good stuff - still young; but at least cleanly made. read on the michelin website about a Clos Rougeard - Saumur - supposedly a great wine. anyone familiar?

David, what a turn of events that one looks to Joguet for non-bretty wines! I understand that they are cleaning up, but I didn't know they were reliably clean already.

read on the michelin website about a Clos Rougeard - Saumur - supposedly a great wine. anyone familiar?

Clos Rougeard is most assuredly a great wine, David, being head and shoulders above the competition in Saumur. Not cheap, and many of the wines are made for the long haul, but high quality across the board.

Mark Lipton

read on the michelin website about a Clos Rougeard - Saumur - supposedly a great wine. anyone familiar?

Clos Rougeard is most assuredly a great wine, David, being head and shoulders above the competition in Saumur. Not cheap, and many of the wines are made for the long haul, but high quality across the board.

Mark Lipton

If you are highly sensitive to Brett, however, as you suggest you are... tread lightly.

David, the "Les Granges" is a separate bottling (made for early drinking, usually a buck or two cheaper than the estate- now that's confusing), but there's at least a hint of brett in the estate. On day 2 it's a tad more distinct,but still well within my tolerance level (I'm pretty brett tolerant to most strains)

David, the "Les Granges" is a separate bottling (made for early drinking, usually a buck or two cheaper than the estate- now that's confusing), but there's at least a hint of brett in the estate. On day 2 it's a tad more distinct,but still well within my tolerance level (I'm pretty brett tolerant to most strains)

Dale, do you find that the upper-level Baudrys are less bretty? I've found some to be bretty (e.g. the 06 Clos Guillot), and some not (e.g. 2005 Grezeaux), but my experience is limited. I nevertheless have a fair amount of Baudry in my cellar owing to the good experiences I've had with it, which have been good indeed.

No pattern.
I've had some bretty les Granges, but some that weren't (didn't get brett w/08 on Friday). Never had a Grezeaux that I thought was bretty, but that's the only "upper level" I've bought many of. But one would assume if there is brett in winery, it wouldn't be limited to one wine. As noted, I'm not as bothered by a touch of brett as some.