by Bill Hooper » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Prieler Blaufränkisch “Goldberg” 2005 -Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Österreich 13,5% alc
I bring up the price of this wine for the simple reason of showing that Austrian reds are indeed serious business to Austrians and I guess those of us around the world who truly love grapes such as Blaufränkisch. I tasted this about 6 months ago and it was so completely shut down that I hardly knew what to think. Today it is an impressive wine to be sure (and it’s unfurling, even if very slowly.) If you are familiar with some of the flagship red cuvees from the better Austrian producers, you will have noticed a definite stylistic shift away from using too much oak, limited blending with international varieties, lower alcohol levels and generally towards more elegance. This wine is impressive in that it stays within those parameters. Blackberry fruit, charcuterie, lavender, aloe, dark chocolate, sweet red pepper with fine tannins (like Gevrey-Chambertin) -in fact, this has a remarkably Grand Cru Burgundian texture (especially in oak treatment terms -this sees two years in barrique without tasting like it.) Great stuff. $130 great has to be decided after much more cellar time. -BH
Wein schenkt Freude
ITB paetrawine.com