2005 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Orleans -Rheingau, Deutschland
I basically had to beg to purchase a bottle of this out of the Breuer cellar last summer (it was one of six bottles left from the ’05 vintage, and was not at all for sale.) Please bear with me as some background may be necessary for Gelber Orleans. This is not a 20th century German crossing, but rather an ancient variety once widely planted on the Rüdesheimer Berg (thought to have been brought by Charlemagne from France, but who knows.) It has in the 20th century been torn out in favor of Riesling, but there are a couple producers (and only a couple as far as I know -Knipser being the other) that have brought the vine back from extinction. The vine is without doubt a noble one. Growing Orleans these days on a terroir as gifted as the Berg Schloßberg is almost unprecedented. It’s like Vogüé having Chardonnay in Le Musigny.
The wine is much more than a museum piece, though. It comes off to me like riesling in texture and density. It is rather firm, with very pure white peach and apple blossoms, and semolina. An almond nuttiness replaces the really heady aromas, and there is power beneath like good Rhein Riesling mixed with Furmint (Dry Furmint is a really close comparison I think), and primary rock mineral and silvery, sleek acidity. The detail is astounding. Bravo! 500 bottles produced. -BH