A spinach salad, roasted new potatoes and turkey burgers; it may sound pedestrian but, when Diane is the cook, it isn’t.
So we opened two bottles of Morgon to compare and accompany: The 2005 Terres Dorées (Brun) and the 2007 Dom. J. Chamonard.
In their own way, both are lovely wines and suited the meal. The Brun was bigger and more saturated but also less distinctive to its AOC. The Chamonard was precise and so obviously a Morgon that it would be difficult to guess it coming from anywhere else – more complex, earthier, intellectually stimulating.
Both of these wines are under 13% alcohol and could use some additional time in the cellar, although neither was closed; they both just came across young.
Two delicious Beaujolais, yet both Diane and I preferred the Chamonard for its evident character.
2006 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillon:
Pomegranate, allspice, cherry and something tangy; much the same in the mouth with tannins so fine they remind me of talc, good acidity, more concentration than most vintages of this and lovely balance; long, grippy finish that never dries. Fuller flavored than most vintages of this but also a fragrant and fun wine. Along side Caesar salad with grilled chicken, very nice. One of my all-time favorite wines.
1999 d’Angerville, Volnay Clos des Ducs:
13.5% alcohol; 100% Volnay nose with firm cherry and stone tones but softer and more expansive then expected; harmonious and complete in the mouth – terrific sap and intensity but all contained in a frame of mineral and clear cherry flavors, concentrated but not heavy, bone-dry but not drying; incredible length. A wine of balance and approachability yet one that hints of its latent power and longevity. One of the most expressive and still pure pinot noirs of recent memory.
I suspect this will outlast me and develop for years to come but it was spectacular with grilled duck breast and assorted cheeses.
Best, Jim
