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WTN: Two Loosen Kabinetts

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Chris Kissack

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WTN: Two Loosen Kabinetts

by Chris Kissack » Fri Apr 23, 2010 12:44 am

A break from Bordeaux 2009 - well deserved I think!

Two good value wines here, the 2003 was a surprise finding poured by a friend as I didn't add anything from this vintage to the cellar (not on purpose anyway - one retailer did send me some 2003s by mistake!). It was OK - not as off the wall as I expected, just a typical although perhaps rather forward flavour profile, presented in a fat and rich style - so the weight and texture were atypical - and then take away the acidity. Not something I would go for again, but certainly drinkable in the right frame of mind.

Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2003: Under cork. A fairly rich golden hue for a kabinett, perhaps the bottle age, more likely the vintage I would think. The nose is rich but also very characterful and true to the variety and terroir despite the exuberant vintage, first showing a wealth of slatey aromas alongside the golden autumnal fruits, and then classic petrolly elements too. Very rich and soft on the palate, with forward fruit, and lots of slatey-petrolly elements here too. Most notable is the lack of acidity, although there is a little substance and grip underneath the texture that helps to give it some structure in the mouth. But not a wine for those looking for an incisive cut, and it has a weight of fruit more in keeping with a spatlese than a kabinett. Some good elements here though. 15.5/20 AP Number: 2 576 162 56 04

And then the last of my bargain-basement 2005s from Loosen - every one a consistent conveyor of pleasure.

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Kabinett 2005: Under screwcap. About two and a half years on from my last tasting, and certainly a more restrained style on the nose today, with muted, minerally citrus fruit. The palate has an appealing, fleshy texture, backed up by really fairly firm acidity, so that this maintains a lot of punch on the palate. And there's some spice too, perhaps redolent of the pepper I picked up last time - with the fruit flavour alongside it's very reminiscent of a spicy lime pickle. Good style, even showing some length. These 2005 Loosen kabinetts have certainly made for good value, unfussy drinking. 17+/20 AP number: 2 576 162 30 06

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