WTN: Who needs toothpaste? (Cline Mourvedre)

Tonight, with a dinner of braised lamb shoulder, I decided to open a wine that had been languishing in the cellar for some time:

1999 Cline Cellars Mourvedre "Small Berry"
nose: MINT! LICORICE?!! and lurking beneath some berryish fruit
palate: medium weight, moderately acidic, dark fruit and a cooling blast of menthol

This wine was purchased at the winery in Dec. '01. At the time of purchase, the mint/eucalyptus notes in the wine were an interesting bit of complexity atop the fruit, acids and tannins. Now, 8 years later, those volatile elements (might some think of it as VA? possibly, as it does remind me of ethyl acetate now and again) have come to the fore, nearly overtaking any sense of fruit or tertiary elements, at least for this taster. While not an unpleasant taste, it is too monolithic and insistent a flavor to hold my interest or pair particularly well with food. File this wine away under "novelty act." Since I find this same element present in most of Cline's wines, I fear that this might be the last Cline wine I cellar for the foreseeable future.

Mark Lipton

Having now sat open for a few hours, the aromatics of the wine have changed somewhat. Beyond the mintiness (which hasn't completely abated) there is now a wine with the most intense smell of cedar that I've ever encountered. So, rather than eucalyptus or licorice, I'd say that this wine is dominated by a combination of menthol and cedar. No moths are likely to disturb my glass!

Mark Lipton

[James Roscoe]

I have the Cline Mourvedre rosé. It is pretty good for $9.99

My experience with Cline Mourvedre (all of which has come from old vineyards in Oakley, in the San Joaquin Delta, near Antioch) has been that the only salient characteristic of the wines is the VA/mint/eucalyptus/cedar note you describe, which has everything to do with conscious winemaking decisions, and nothing to do with either Mourvedre, or with the area. Wines made by recipe, without any trace of originality in evidence.
It's also true that there are things here that people enjoy and find pleasing, and I don't begrudge anyone their pleasure. But it's tricked-up, and has nothing to do with fine wine.

My experience with Cline Mourvedre (all of which has come from old vineyards in Oakley, in the San Joaquin Delta, near Antioch) has been that the only salient characteristic of the wines is the VA/mint/eucalyptus/cedar note you describe, which has everything to do with conscious winemaking decisions, and nothing to do with either Mourvedre, or with the area. Wines made by recipe, without any trace of originality in evidence.
It's also true that there are things here that people enjoy and find pleasing, and I don't begrudge anyone their pleasure. But it's tricked-up, and has nothing to do with fine wine.

And it is the old Contra Costa County allegiance that caused me to take a flier on this wine lo those many years ago, Steve. But what sort of cellar-based trickery accounts for this? Is there some "Colgate" yeast strain designed to give you mint julep flavors? Is there a mint variant of MegaPurple? The mind boggles.

Mark Lipton

My experience with Cline Mourvedre (all of which has come from old vineyards in Oakley, in the San Joaquin Delta, near Antioch) has been that the only salient characteristic of the wines is the VA/mint/eucalyptus/cedar note you describe, which has everything to do with conscious winemaking decisions, and nothing to do with either Mourvedre, or with the area. Wines made by recipe, without any trace of originality in evidence.
It's also true that there are things here that people enjoy and find pleasing, and I don't begrudge anyone their pleasure. But it's tricked-up, and has nothing to do with fine wine.

Steve,
Don't quite understand. How do you get eucalyptus in a wine from tricked-up winemaking??? I thought those eucalyptus
trees were part of the terroir??? Sounds more like terroir-driven winemaking to me...the holy grail.
Tom

Having now sat open for a few hours, the aromatics of the wine have changed somewhat. Beyond the mintiness (which hasn't completely abated) there is now a wine with the most intense smell of cedar that I've ever encountered. So, rather than eucalyptus or licorice, I'd say that this wine is dominated by a combination of menthol and cedar. No moths are likely to disturb my glass!

Mark Lipton

This sounds exactly like the disgusting Rombauer Zin that MikeH sadistically thrust upon me at a Cincinnati Wine Festival. (Yes, I hold grudges ) The first word I uttered was "toothpaste!" ...well, that may not have been the FIRST word

JB

1999 Cline Cellars Mourvedre "Small Berry"
nose: MINT! LICORICE?!! and lurking beneath some berryish fruit
palate: medium weight, moderately acidic, dark fruit and a cooling blast of menthol

The first thing I thought of when I read this was Pleiades, thought that's more eucalyptus than mint really. I see you revised the description after it sat for a while to say cedar. If overpowering that's certainly not good, though if in balance those elements sound mighty tasty to me. Then again I used to chew on pencils.

1999 Cline Cellars Mourvedre "Small Berry"
nose: MINT! LICORICE?!! and lurking beneath some berryish fruit
palate: medium weight, moderately acidic, dark fruit and a cooling blast of menthol

The first thing I thought of when I read this was Pleiades, thought that's more eucalyptus than mint really. I see you revised the description after it sat for a while to say cedar. If overpowering that's certainly not good, though if in balance those elements sound mighty tasty to me. Then again I used to chew on pencils.

No, Kelly, having grown up amidst the blue gum, I know eucalypt when I smell it; having also had a few different years of the Pleiades, I also can attest that this wine doesn't smell like that. And, finally, I have no beef with a bit of cedar in those oak-aged wines that I willingly drink, but this was more like being locked into an airtight, cedar-lined closet for a torrid August. All things in moderation, including moderation.

Mark Lipton

I liked several vintages of Cline's basic CA Zin for the price, but haven't generally gravitated towards the high (over $10!) stuff

This sounds exactly like the disgusting Rombauer Zin that MikeH sadistically thrust upon me at a Cincinnati Wine Festival. (Yes, I hold grudges ) The first word I uttered was "toothpaste!" ...well, that may not have been the FIRST word

JB

Rombauer Zin is one of my true vinous betes noirs.

As is their horrific (although amazingly popular) Chardonnay. Bleh.

Oddly enough, they made an absolutely killer Diamond Mountain AVA Cabernet in 2001 that was one of the best Napa Cabs I have tasted.

I don't like eucalyptus aromas in wine. Back before I visited the county, I noticed an undesirable aroma in many of the wines that I called "Sonoma Stink". When I visited Sonoma, I noticed the eucalyptus trees, and there aroma, were everywhere.

Eucalyptus can definitely give a mint toothpaste quality to wines. Consider Martha's Vineyard.

-Paul W.