WTNs: A pair of Spreitzer Kabinettweine

2008 Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Kabinett 10,5% -Rheingau, Deutschland

It came to my attention after tasting pretty extensively in the Rheingau last summer that the nervy 2008 acidity enjoyed from the Saarland to Franken that still gets my heart racing is slightly curtailed in the ‘Gau. This isn’t abnormal. But the stylistic blessing bestowed on the Rheingau in 2008 is that for the first time in a long time, the Rheingau came to training camp a few pounds lighter and with more dexterity. It’s nice to see how versatile these vineyards, known for iron and sinew and broad-shoulders, really are.

The Doosberg Kabinett ’08 is very good. Gala apples, two days-before-perfect papaya, sweet emmenthal, marzipan, and fresh fennel. Firm, but with a dewy coolness too, and enough acidity to keep the ’08 faithful happy.

2007 Weingut Sprietzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett 8,0% -Rheingau, Deutschland

Good Lord! The heady cherry-blossom bouquet of this wine is outrageously intoxicating. This is decidedly red-fruited Rainier cherries, sweet tango apples, cilantro, mint, a sort of pumice mineral and a streamlined ’07 body. All this joy with a mere 8% alc!

[David M. Bueker]

Good vineyards, good winemakers & great guys. The Spreitzer brothers are my picks (with Leitz) for the Rheingau.

Good vineyards, good winemakers & great guys. The Spreitzer brothers are my picks (with Leitz) for the Rheingau.

Agreed. I think that we've discussed it before, but the Rheingau is heating up (and not just by climate change.) I'm excited by what I've seen over tha last few years. Have you warmed up to Breuer yet?

-Bill

[David M. Bueker]

Agreed. I think that we've discussed it before, but the Rheingau is heating up (and not just by climate change.) I'm excited by what I've seen over tha last few years. Have you warmed up to Breuer yet?

I have not warmed up to Breuer, but not for lack of an open mind. Breuer has disappeared from the markets where I shop. I have tried several bottles from Kunstler that I thought were promising, and I very much like what is happening at the Johannishof/Eser these days, not to mention the quality reviival at Schloss Johannisberg, so there is much to smile about in the Rheingau. Von Simmern and Schloss Schonborn have shown a few bright spots over the last few years, and once they get more consistent the Rheingau will really challenge the current supremacy of the middle Mosel and Nahe for best region in Germany.

once they get more consistent the Rheingau will really challenge the current supremacy of the middle Mosel and Nahe for best region in Germany.

Although of course the notion of 'supremacy' depends on stylistic preferences? Historically there are lots of great vineyards in the Rheingau so there is obviously potential to produce better wine than is currently being produced. But for someone who likes the Mosel style they will probably never seem superior.

[David M. Bueker]

once they get more consistent the Rheingau will really challenge the current supremacy of the middle Mosel and Nahe for best region in Germany.

Although of course the notion of 'supremacy' depends on stylistic preferences? Historically there are lots of great vineyards in the Rheingau so there is obviously potential to produce better wine than is currently being produced. But for someone who likes the Mosel style they will probably never seem superior.

True enough. I am more thinking of the idea of concentration of superior estates in a very small area rather than stylistic preferences.