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WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

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Brian K Miller

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WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Brian K Miller » Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:56 am

2006 Domaine de Durbin Gigondas. Kermit Lynch 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah

Dark ruby color.

Complex and evolving nose: brown sugar, herbs, spice, earth, tobacco. A rich and evocative nose.

Unfortunately, palate is much more austere. Is this the highish Syrah content? John Chandler found it astringent...which did not stick out to me. The wine undergoes some carbonic maceration (per the label), which is apprant in the mouth feel. The 14% alcohol does not stick out at all. Some Rhone herbs, strawberry, a bit of earth.

The problem: the really clipped finish with a dominating bitter note.

Makes me rate the wine in the low 80s (B-) rather than high 80. Sad, because the nose promises so much, but it does not follow through on the palate. Which inspired a debate among "the gang" as I am a big wine sniffer and John and Kevin see the nose as a relatively minor opening move on the wine's part. :?
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Bernard Roth

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Re: WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Bernard Roth » Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:14 am

Interesting to learn that Durbin - the prominent Beaume de Venise producer - has ventured into Gigondas. I wonder whether these are purchased grapes or they've recently bought vineyards in Gigondas.

Durbin's Beaumes - both red and muscat - are in my view un paralleled in the appellation.
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Bernard Roth
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Jonathan Loesberg

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Re: WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Jonathan Loesberg » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:22 am

The produce in Beaumes de Venise is Durban. Is this the Gigondas you had? I also didn't know they made one and also have long enjoyed their dessert wine. Or is this a different domaine?
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Re: WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Brian K Miller » Thu Apr 15, 2010 10:51 am

Jonathan Loesberg wrote:The produce in Beaumes de Venise is Durban. Is this the Gigondas you had? I also didn't know they made one and also have long enjoyed their dessert wine. Or is this a different domaine?


With an "i". I picked this up either at Kermit Lynch's retail shop in Berkeley or at K&L in San Francisco. I really loved the nose so would like to try one more bottle.
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Cliff Rosenberg

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Re: WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Cliff Rosenberg » Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:22 pm

I suspect what's new is that Kermit is bringing the wine in. Durban is up in the Dentelles where Beaumes meets Gigondas, and they make a range of reds, rose, and whites.
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Re: WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Jonathan Loesberg » Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:42 pm

Cliff Rosenberg wrote:I suspect what's new is that Kermit is bringing the wine in. Durban is up in the Dentelles where Beaumes meets Gigondas, and they make a range of reds, rose, and whites.


But if it's spelled with an "i," this wine isn't Durban.
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Re: WTN: Disappointing Gigondas

by Cliff Rosenberg » Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:44 pm

True.

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