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WTN: Interesting, intriguing, inscrutible Italians

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WTN: Interesting, intriguing, inscrutible Italians

by David M. Bueker » Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:45 am

Spencer hosted our monthly blind tasting group. I had zero idea what we were drinking until the bottles were unveiled.

1999 Bellavista Franciacorta Grand Cuvée Brut Pas Operé (Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta)
Crisp, lemony & very refreshing. It won’t win complexity contests, so I am a little dubious regarding QPR (it’s apparently a $40-$50 bottle), but I am quite happy to drink it.

2002 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi IGT (Italy, Sardinia, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT)
Smells of ethyl acetate and over ripeness. Very pruney. It’s surprisingly well balanced on the palate, but still more like prunes than fresh fruit. Not a fan.

2004 Casa Vinicola Michele Alois Trebulanum Campania IGT (Italy, Campania, Campania IGT)
A slight metallic edge on the nose and finish of the wine detracts from what otherwise is quite delicious. There’s lots of complexity, and it has a lovely tobacco/cedar quality on the nose and palate.

2005 Le Macchiole Bolgheri Superiore Paleo Rosso (Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore)
Bright, fruity. Quite rich & well balanced with good acidity. I like this a lot for its richness that avoids heaviness.

2004 Ampeleia Maremma Toscana IGT (Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana IGT)
Rather mute on the nose. It does have some fruit on the palate, but also an odd finishing flavor that I could not pin down. Air brought out some floral elements & a little fresh fruit, but I found this rather closed.

2004 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT (Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)
I did not care for this at all. My notes read volatile, austere, tannic, tart & vegetal. Ugh. This was also the lowest rated wine from the group.

2003 Azienda Agricola Montevetrano Montevetrano Colli di Salerno IGT (Italy, Campania, Colli di Salerno IGT)
Very floral & stuffed with perfectly ripe, dark fruit. It turns austere/tannic on the finish, so perhaps it’s a bit closed in right now. Still it’s very good & seems to have a bright future, as the fruit is still quite rich in support of the tannins. As a 2003 I would remain a bit wary if I had a bunch.

2006 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Il Quadro delle Rose Feudo di Mezzo (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)
A much more elegant wine than all the preceding bottles. It’s also the most distinctive with smoky/funky elements on the nose & sweeter fruit (almost but not quite candied). It does finish a touch hot, and it’s quite tannic, but overall I do like it very much.

2004 Cantina Sardus Pater Carignano del Sulcis Superiore “Arruga” (Italy, Sardinia, Carignano del Sulcis)
This has more austere than the preceding wine, and it is also lighter. Still has quite sweet fruit though. Not nearly as tannic as the prior wine.

2004 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro Roccamonfina IGT (Italy, Campania, Roccamonfina IGT)
Interesting wine. It’s earthy, rich, full of dark fruit & has an interesting iodine note on the nose. This is very tannic, but seems to have the fruit to balance it out.

[b] 2001 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine (Italy, Campania, Taurasi)[b]
This shows some of the volatility of earlier wines. It’s quite ripe, even over-ripe, and not to my taste. The tannins are overwhelming & I don’t see this integrating, but rather getting more and more austere as the abundant tannins take over.

Good tasting that gave us a chance to try some unfamiliar wines. The cheeses (from Artisanal) were also outstanding with my particular favorite being Testun al Barolo.
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Salil

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Re: WTN: Interesting, intriguing, inscrutible Italians

by Salil » Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:37 pm

Interesting lineup. Nice to read a positive note on '03 Montevetrano, have had a couple of other vintages of that wine and really enjoyed it.

I'd like to explore the Terre Nere Etna wines further, have only had their (unfortunately pricey) Don Peppino prephylloxera bottling which I found stunning some time back.
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Hoke

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Re: WTN: Interesting, intriguing, inscrutible Italians

by Hoke » Wed Apr 14, 2010 2:25 pm

Idano...they all seem scrutible to me, and definitely interesting.

Re Bellavista Franciacorta----had those before and was more impressed than you appeared to be with this one. Certainly the ones I had seemed complex---more with the minerality a la Italiano than the yeastiness/leesiness a la Champagne, if you know what I mean. Can't recall the 1999 offhand though.

The Argiolas: shame about that acetone thingie. And yeah, sometimes, the pruniness can be a touch overdone. Usually quite nice wine for me.

Re Montevetrano: do you think your experience/response to this indicates they are consciously going "international style" (the usual euphemism for appealing to Parker, Spec and Bicchiere) and loading up with extract and oak? Or just that year?
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Re: WTN: Interesting, intriguing, inscrutible Italians

by Tim York » Wed Apr 14, 2010 4:05 pm

David M. Bueker wrote: 2006 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Il Quadro delle Rose Feudo di Mezzo (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)
A much more elegant wine than all the preceding bottles. It’s also the most distinctive with smoky/funky elements on the nose & sweeter fruit (almost but not quite candied). It does finish a touch hot, and it’s quite tannic, but overall I do like it very much.



Who else would have thought that a Sicilian wine would stand out for elegance? The Terre Nere range was a revelation to me at a tasting a couple of years ago and the wines of Cornelissen seem to be getting a legendary status. Let us hope that the Etna vineyards avoid the lava flows.
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