A wonderful wine festival in Châteauneuf du Pape

I have just returned from one of my nicest wine experiences ever: the first Printemps de Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

I wanted to attend because my knowledge of this up-and-coming appellation is rusty and also because I knew that my friend Harry Karis, the man who wrote a book on the subject, would be there.

The wine fair took place in the town's Salle des Fêtes.
Imagine seventy different producers on hand to pour their wines, including some very famous people in the world of wine, and cuvées costing up to 200 euros a bottle… It was also possible to buy wines, and my car was a lot heavier on the way back home .

CDP starts at 14 euros a bottle, and you can find wonderful, serious examples at 18 or 20 euros.

Not being familiar with the appellation, I was afraid I would encounter a number of top-heavy, alcoholic wines. However, any such wines were very much in the minority.

The people who promote the appellation had organized some fascinating workshops run by a panel of movers and shakers in the appellation. One of the workshops was on the different terroirs in CDP, another involved a tasting of wines made from 100% of various grape varieties (ever taste a varietal Vaccarèse before? I sure hadn't!) and the best of all was a tutored tasting of old wines, going back nearly 50 years.

My eyes were opened on a number of accounts. I admit to having somewhat of a prejudice against white Rhone Valley wines, but was pleasantly surprised to come across some wonderful white CDP.
Furthermore, many producers have vineyards in neighboring appellations including, of course Côtes du Rhône. Almost invariably, when you like a producer's CDP a lot, you find that his CdR, Lirac, etc. is also very good.

The tasting was open to the general public and the 7 euro admission included a souvenir tasting glass. While not a professional event, the level of seriously interested participants was high and it was easy to taste at your own pace without people bumping into you or trying to crowd you out from the stars of the appellation.

This two-day event (Saturday the 10th and Sunday the 11th of April) was clearly a success, with some 1,200 visitors. I'm glad I was able to go to the first one, because the Printemps is bound to take on an increasingly large dimension in coming years.

I must have tasted a hundred wines. I had heard that the 2007 vintage was something very special, but many of the 2006s and 2008s were on an equal footing.

There seemed to be a consensus among winegrowers that CDP is good both young and old, and frequently goes dormant from, roughly speaking, age 5 to age 10. Certainly the pure sensual fruit of some of these wines makes you want to imbibe them just 2 or 3 years after the vintage. However, such wines as 1998 Vieux Donjon, 1990 Les Cailloux, 1988 Bosquet des Papes, 1974 Clos St. Jean, 1974 Beaurenard, 1966 Clos du Mont Olivet and 1962 Château La Gardine showed they also have the potential to age gracefully and display great complexity.

The attitude in CDP is very refreshing. This is not a "coat and tie" sort of place. Famous winegrowers show up in jeans and react with genuine interest and hospitality to questions from wine enthusiasts. I might add that English speakers are not really left in the lurch. English translation was available at the workshops, and everyone does their best with evident good will to speak the language of Shakespeare. I met people from half a dozen countries and everyone had a very positive opinion of the tasting.

I'm an inveterate note taker, and I have pages and pages of comments. I'll share a few of the highlights.

The wines of Domaine Barroche struck me as being especially good, up to and including the impressive Pure cuvee.
Cuvée du Vatican had some very classy wines, including a white that might fool more than one person into thinking it was a top-rate Côte de Beaune!
Domaine de la Solitude has some phenomenal special cuvées, such as Cornelia Constanza and the Réserve Secrète. These are expensive, but also quite special.
The old stand-by, Les Cailloux, at 18 or 20 euros a bottle, was as good as ever.
The similarly-named Clos du Caillou has a marvelous Cuvée Quartz.
I had read much about Domaine La Janasse on Internet forums and was pleased that their wines lived up to their fine reputation, including a wonderful cuvée Vieilles Vignes and a very elegant white wine. They were also pouring the rare XXL cuvee.
Domaine Cristia has modern style wines with plenty of attitude, and also exuberant fruit and a range of quality wines.
I discovered at the "vins des cépage" tasting that I very much appreciate the Mourvèdre variety as grown in CDP. So it was hardly surprising that I particularly liked the Vini di Felibre cuvée from Domaine Mathieu (80% Mourvèdre) and the pure Mourvèdre from Domaine de Boislauzon.
Another oddity was the Réserve Cuvée from Domaine de Nalys with 70% Syrah. A very classy and interesting wine.
The effervescent Isabel Ferrando's wines were quite good. Her (10-year old?) daughter was pouring as well, and could reel off the percentages of grape varieties with impressive accuracy! As well as Domaine Saint Préfert, Isabel also has another domaine called Colombis which was one of the better wines I tasted.
One often associates large estates with dependable but rarely exciting quality. However, I was delighted to see that both Mont Redon and Château de la Nerthe produce very good wines. The latter's Cuvée des Cadettes was very fine indeed.
I was very pleased to discover the 2007 Domaine de Mont Thabor. At 18 euros a bottle, this is textbook CDP with a rich, delicious flavor and a long aftertaste. Tremendous value for money.
The entire range from Domaine de la Mordorée was of impeccable quality. Their Lirac rouge is to die for! Their CDP (they have 5 hectares) is expensive, but worth it, and their 2008 Tavel rosé, at 10 euros a bottle, is a real treat. I was equally taken with their Lirac blanc.
Laurence Féraud was pouring 2 vintages (2005 and 2006) Domaine Pégau Cuvée Laurence, which were among the finest wines on show.
The 2007 Deus Ex Machina from Clos Saint Jean was astonishing, with a structure, texture and aftertaste that put it unreservedly in the pantheon of the finest wines of France.
The young winemaker at Domaine de Villeneuve makes a biodynamic, tremendously fruity and reasonably-priced wine.
2009 Beaucastel red and 2006 white were as good as I had hoped, and the same could be said for 2008 Charvin, a wine of particular, almost Burgundian elegance.
La Côte de l'Ange makes a prestige cuvee aged in small oak barrels that definitely caught my attention as well, as did the wines of La Bastide de la Dominique, especially the 2008 Cuvée Chloris.
La Gardine is another estate with a large production but, believe me, they do good work. They have released a special cuvee called L'Imortelle (2007) that is simply outstanding.

The winemakers in CDP are aware that their star is rising and conscious of the fact that they have to maintain and improve quality. Good wines have been produced here forever (well, at least as far back as the 14th century…), but the appellation has attained another dimension in the past decade or so. It is fascinating to follow the developments.

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape region is beautiful, with olive trees and snow-capped Mont Ventoux in the background. There are no "gastronomic" restaurants in the immediate vicinity (La Mère Germain is closing down), although I very much enjoyed a meal at Le Verger du Pape at the foot of the château. They have an excellent and very reasonably priced wine list. Le Mas des Aigras (a hotel restaurant) in nearby Orange also provided a fine dining experience.

All this makes me want to go back again soon… and spend more time there!

Best regards,
Alex R.

this up-and-coming appellation

I thought they had already come up.

So you think there will be even more new producers and even more price rises in the upcoming years?

(Sounds like a fun trip)

Rahsaan,

>>>So you think there will be even more new producers and even more price rises in the upcoming years?

Yes.

But, if your read the post, you'll see that there is some very good stuff there at affordable prices.
OK, it's like comparing apples and oranges, but look at what fine Bordeaux and Burgundy costs...
*And* you don't have to wait forever to drink the stuff!

Alex R.

I read the post and I saw the prices. But I thought the big jump for CdP had already happened (thanks to Parker of course). CdP is still generally cheaper than Burgundy or Bordeaux but the top cuvees have already become pretty expensive and risen fast over the last 10-15 years, no?

Rahsaan,

Talking about the top cuvées in CDP is like talking about the great growths of Bordeaux compared to the region as a whole.
Misleading....

My comment about "up-and-coming" is a generational thing. For someone my age, CDP could never be considered - until recently - in the same breath as the great wines of the Côte d'Or or the Médoc. You are considerably younger and have a different perspective.

Best regards,
Alex

Talking about the top cuvées in CDP is like talking about the great growths of Bordeaux compared to the region as a whole.
Misleading....

But it depends what we are talking about. Nobody ever said the top cuvees were representative of the region.

I was under the impression that the top cuvees shot up in price over the past 10-15 years and the regular cuvees may have gone up slightly (depending on producer) or not at all.

But for the future I didn't know how much more price increase to expect at any level.

I mean how much higher can the top ones go? Sure irrational exuberance can continue but due to terroir reasons I think a very limited few will be able to play on the upper levels. And is there really room for more price increases on the basic CdPs?

I was under the impression that the CdP boom had 'peaked' and may continue at a certain plateau, but was not becoming more expensive and more sought-after every year. Hence my questions about what you mean by 'up and coming'.

But I agree, historically-speaking, clearly CdP has changed in recent decades.

My comment about "up-and-coming" is a generational thing. For someone my age, CDP could never be considered - until recently - in the same breath as the great wines of the Côte d'Or or the Médoc. You are considerably younger and have a different perspective.

For what it's worth, I don't think CdP is in the same league as Burgundy or Bordeaux. I think they get a lot of reliable ripeness and produce some fun - and even elegant - wines that appeal to a broad market. But the terroir distinctiveness is a different story. But I may be out of step with my generation.

[David M. Bueker]

I was under the impression that the top cuvees shot up in price over the past 10-15 years and the regular cuvees may have gone up slightly (depending on producer) or not at all.

You are only half right. The regular cuvees have also risen significantly in price. A few have held relatively steady (Clos du Mont Olivet for example), but many have doubled in price or more.

Rahsaan,

You wrote:
>>>But it depends what we are talking about. Nobody ever said the top cuvees were representative of the region.

I assumed you were talking about the top cuvées because the regular cuvées are not expensive.
(not to me anyway!).

>>>But for the future I didn't know how much more price increase to expect at any level.

Sorry, don't have a crystal ball..

>>>I mean how much higher can the top ones go?

As high as the market will bear .

>>>I was under the impression that the CdP boom had 'peaked' and may continue at a certain plateau, but was not becoming more expensive and more sought-after every year.

This may be the case in the US, you'd know more than me! Elsewhere, demand is strong.
(This is not to play down the American market) - people acknowledge Robert Parker's contribution to "discovering" the appellation and are waiting for the American economy to pick up again so exports can resume as usual.

All the best,
Alex

Prices of CdP. except for those that get scores above 95, had held steady between 05 and 07 (after massive price jumps for 98, 00 and then 03 strangely). 07 has been more expensive, but not egregiously so since despite the hype, the market seems only willing to pay so much. And there have been a lot of firesales on 04 and 06 to compete with them. Longterm, the weak dollar and since 08 the economy have held down prices and will probably for a couple of more vintages. But I don't expect it to last. When I first started buying there, wines from the domaines routinely cost 2 to 3 times less what they cost in the states and still sold in the states for $20. Now many wines cost not much less at the domaines than they cost here, obviously because growers and importers are working to keep them at a certain level. That can't go on forever.

As to comparative pricing, while one can occasionally find good CdP for $25 to $30, the entry level price range now seems to be $40-50. Pegau costs $80 and Clos des Papes, well I no longer keep track. And of course da Capo, Celestins, and a handful of others cost easily as much as a Bordeaux first growth, a Chave Hermitage or one of the handful of top Burgundies. Since one can buy very good Burgundies and Bordeaux in the $50 range, speaking of CdP as a bargain is really a matter of nostalgia.

[David M. Bueker]

If I look at my purchase price details, Vieux Donjon cost me $24.99 for the 1998. The 2007 is selling locally for over $70. 1998 Clos des Papes was $32.99. The 2007 (which I am not interested in) is locally $104.99!!!

If I look at my purchase price details, Vieux Donjon cost me $24.99 for the 1998. The 2007 is selling locally for over $70. 1998 Clos des Papes was $32.99. The 2007 (which I am not interested in) is locally $104.99!!!

And 98 was already a price jump. I got my 95 Clos des Papes for $20 and my 98 for $25. Pegau was more striking. In 95, one could still find it for around $20, more or less. By 98, it was over $30, I think.

Count me in camp that got priced out of CdP. I thought 98s were expensive, but prices kept rising till recently. Last Vieux Donjon I bought was '00, last Beaucastel or Clos des Papes 01. I bought a few lesser 03 CdP at closeout prices (and mostly regretted it). Last CdP I bought was 05 La Milliere at $25.
It's not that I won't pay $50+ for wine, it's just at that price I prefer Burgundy or Bordeaux (or Barolo).

I have just returned from one of my nicest wine experiences ever: the first Printemps de Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

I wanted to attend because my knowledge of this up-and-coming appellation is rusty and also because I knew that my friend Harry Karis, the man who wrote a book on the subject, would be there.

The wine fair took place in the town's Salle des Fêtes.
Imagine seventy different producers on hand to pour their wines, including some very famous people in the world of wine, and cuvées costing up to 200 euros a bottle… It was also possible to buy wines, and my car was a lot heavier on the way back home .

CDP starts at 14 euros a bottle, and you can find wonderful, serious examples at 18 or 20 euros.

Not being familiar with the appellation, I was afraid I would encounter a number of top-heavy, alcoholic wines. However, any such wines were very much in the minority.

The people who promote the appellation had organized some fascinating workshops run by a panel of movers and shakers in the appellation. One of the workshops was on the different terroirs in CDP, another involved a tasting of wines made from 100% of various grape varieties (ever taste a varietal Vaccarèse before? I sure hadn't!) and the best of all was a tutored tasting of old wines, going back nearly 50 years.

My eyes were opened on a number of accounts. I admit to having somewhat of a prejudice against white Rhone Valley wines, but was pleasantly surprised to come across some wonderful white CDP.
Furthermore, many producers have vineyards in neighboring appellations including, of course Côtes du Rhône. Almost invariably, when you like a producer's CDP a lot, you find that his CdR, Lirac, etc. is also very good.

The tasting was open to the general public and the 7 euro admission included a souvenir tasting glass. While not a professional event, the level of seriously interested participants was high and it was easy to taste at your own pace without people bumping into you or trying to crowd you out from the stars of the appellation.

This two-day event (Saturday the 10th and Sunday the 11th of April) was clearly a success, with some 1,200 visitors. I'm glad I was able to go to the first one, because the Printemps is bound to take on an increasingly large dimension in coming years.

I must have tasted a hundred wines. I had heard that the 2007 vintage was something very special, but many of the 2006s and 2008s were on an equal footing.

There seemed to be a consensus among winegrowers that CDP is good both young and old, and frequently goes dormant from, roughly speaking, age 5 to age 10. Certainly the pure sensual fruit of some of these wines makes you want to imbibe them just 2 or 3 years after the vintage. However, such wines as 1998 Vieux Donjon, 1990 Les Cailloux, 1988 Bosquet des Papes, 1974 Clos St. Jean, 1974 Beaurenard, 1966 Clos du Mont Olivet and 1962 Château La Gardine showed they also have the potential to age gracefully and display great complexity.

The attitude in CDP is very refreshing. This is not a "coat and tie" sort of place. Famous winegrowers show up in jeans and react with genuine interest and hospitality to questions from wine enthusiasts. I might add that English speakers are not really left in the lurch. English translation was available at the workshops, and everyone does their best with evident good will to speak the language of Shakespeare. I met people from half a dozen countries and everyone had a very positive opinion of the tasting....

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape region is beautiful, with olive trees and snow-capped Mont Ventoux in the background. There are no "gastronomic" restaurants in the immediate vicinity (La Mère Germain is closing down), although I very much enjoyed a meal at Le Verger du Pape at the foot of the château. They have an excellent and very reasonably priced wine list. Le Mas des Aigras (a hotel restaurant) in nearby Orange also provided a fine dining experience.

All this makes me want to go back again soon… and spend more time there!

Best regards,
Alex R.

OMG Alex! You just described my favorite reoccuring dream! If this is to be an annual event, it just went to the top of my 'bucket list'. Thank you for this post, I may put it under my pillow.
JB

OMG Alex! You just described my favorite reoccuring dream! If this is to be an annual event, it just went to the top of my 'bucket list'. Thank you for this post, I may put it under my pillow.
JB

I did give you my number, didn't I?

Count me in camp that got priced out of CdP. I thought 98s were expensive, but prices kept rising till recently. Last Vieux Donjon I bought was '00, last Beaucastel or Clos des Papes 01. I bought a few lesser 03 CdP at closeout prices (and mostly regretted it). Last CdP I bought was 05 La Milliere at $25.
It's not that I won't pay $50+ for wine, it's just at that price I prefer Burgundy or Bordeaux (or Barolo).

Pretty much exactly sums up my feelings.

Chef :

I did give you my number, didn't I?

Brother, I got your number a lonnnnnng time ago!

[James Roscoe]

Chef :

I did give you my number, didn't I?

Brother, I got your number a lonnnnnng time ago!

Let's all go next spring!


After one of us hits the lottery!

Wonderful post. Nice to read with great enthusiasm. But I do wish CdP would come back home to the people - that is, lower the prices to the good old days...or, at least, closer. I'm sure now, with the world in economic recession, some producers are regretting those price hikes - but don't know how to lower prices without losing face.

Wonderful post. Nice to read with great enthusiasm. But I do wish CdP would come back home to the people - that is, lower the prices to the good old days...or, at least, closer. I'm sure now, with the world in economic recession, some producers are regretting those price hikes - but don't know how to lower prices without losing face.

So far, at least as of this past year, the names you are all nostalgic about are selling out quite comfortably. They may have a hard time in 08, but they make limited quantities and have a world wide market. I don't like the prices, but a steep fall would mean an economic disaster for a lot of them. They've invested money, buying new land, improving facilities, etc., etc. A return to old prices would mean that many fewer of these wines would exist and be available to us at all.

Chateauneuf du Pape was the first non-domestic wine region that I fell in love with. It was November of 2000 when we spent a week in the south of France and all we drank was CdP. I bought a little at that time, and kept adding to my collection for the next few years as I witnessed the rising prices. I thought my last vintage was 2005 with just a few bottles, but then I grabbed some 2007 Clos St. Jean at $19.99 per bottle and Pierre Usseglio at $16.99.

Like Dale, I bought some 2005 Milliere for $25 and I'm always on the lookout for well priced CdPs from good producers, and there seems to be the occasional deal. To me, it is one of the most food friendly wines and drinking one brings me back to Avignon.

I love your report, Alex.

Alex, I see you met Nicos!! He wrote a lovely report on the UK wine board.