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WTN: Dinner at Dish

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WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Salil » Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:58 am

Our tasting group got together at Dish in Hartford for dinner yesterday. Very enjoyable evening with good friends and a fun mix of wines from all over the place (there was no theme, so we had a pretty eclectic lineup). The food was up and down - really enjoyed the appetizer plates, but found the pork shank entree too dry and the accompanying risotto too sweet to the point it was fighting most of the wines.

2008 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Großes Gewächs (Nahe)
A stunner from the first sip. There's incredible depth here with layers of ripe citrus and white fruited flavours, fresh floral and faintly herbal notes, smoke and savoury earthy nuances in a package that's incredibly polished and seamless with typical Dönnhoff elegance. The '08 acid spine keeps it really fresh and lively and this finishes incredibly long and savoury. Fantastic, and another reminder that I really should budget more for Dönnhoff's dry wines

2008 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Riesling Pergentsknopp (Saar)
Initially dull aromatics, but this began to open up nicely with some air and show a lovely scent of spices, warm earth, rich, faintly honeyed fruit and smoke. Unfortunately it was served too warm to do it any justice, with the temperature overwhelming any sense of acidity or precision this may have had. Hopefully leftovers in the fridge show better.

1998 René-Henri Coutier Champagne Brut Millésimé Grand Cru
Great stuff, full of bright white fruits overlaid with biscuit, nutty and creamy notes with a faint oxidative element. There's a rich, almost velvety texture to this that makes it very easy to drink, with nice acids and good effervescence still keeping it fresh and nicely balanced.

2007 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore
Tightly wound initially, but this opens out with some air to show a lovely scent of pale white fruits and grapefruit flecked with minerals and light herbal accents. Very light, gentle and understated, the flavours don't hit you at once but slowly unravel with time with really good precision and a long, expansive finish. Well outside my frame of reference for Sauvignon Blanc but lovely stuff - while this didn't make an impression immediately, I enjoyed this more and more as I kept revisiting it.

1984 B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon Olive Hill Estate Vineyards (Sonoma Valley)
Corked. Darn.

1996 Tom Eddy Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
I wish I could find more Cabernet that tasted like this. Wonderful wine with a core of deep dark fruit and cassis accented by fresh minty and herbal notes (that remind me of a Wynn's) and the start of developed leathery flavours. There's a sense of restrained power here with fantastic balance and really good acidity that keeps the flavours fresh and precise. Delicious.

1999 Nicolas Potel Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
Hard to move beyond the scent here which is really gorgeous, combining fresh red fruits with all sorts of spices, mushrooms, leather and floral elements. In the mouth it's still very primary and doesn't quite show the same depth of flavour as it does aromatically, but it's still really enjoyable with the flavours feeling really fresh and precise and a finessed, silky texture.

2003 Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula)
Served blind alongside the Burg, quite a few people guessed a New World Pinot, or something else Aussie fairly quickly. Really ripe scent of cherries and cloves, rich but nicely balanced in the mouth with deep fruit and bright spicy notes. Quite enjoyable (though completely blown away by the Vaucrains).

1994 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas
Funky, rustic aromatics full of leather, raw meat, autumnal earthy scents and touches of red fruits - but it tastes nowhere near as good as it smells with the flavours feeling quite tart and shrill, and spiky acidity on the back end.

1986 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Nothing particularly memorable here; the fruit's faded and long past it and all that's left is a generic, old wine dustiness.

1985 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
Holy crap - birthyear Chave! :D Gorgeous aromatics that just keep getting better with time, starts out smelling as if this came from equal parts fruit and pork and then gets more meaty and funky with air, adding leather, iodine and touches of spice. In the mouth it doesn't quite live up to the raised expectations from the aromatics; the fruit feels a little tired and light in the mouth with autumnal forestal notes amidst the leather and pork-broth flavours but it's still incredibly enjoyable with fantastic balance and finesse. A real treat, thanks Jed!

2003 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
Massive; a powerhouse of ripe red and dark fruits with a faintly roasted tinge to the flavours and accents of pepper and rosemary. Incredibly dense and heavy in the mouth to the point that it's a challenge to drink much of this, there's very little acidity and the texture's almost syrupy.

2000 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru) (St. Julien)
Great aromatics; one of the most vivid expressions of graphite I've ever smelled in a wine with cassis, cigar smoke and cedary accents. Right in my zone as far as young Bordeaux goes with a great combination of fruit and other savoury graphite, tobacco and earthy flavours on a frame that's medium bodied, nicely structured with a spine of grainy tannins and bright acids and really well balanced.

1998 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
Really disappointing; there's a core of bold blueberry and blackcurrant fruit but it's smothered with a ton of oak that dominates the fruit and any other nuances here.

2001 Mount Horrocks Riesling Cordon Cut (Clare Valley)
A huge change from the last time I had this; much deeper in colour - almost dark amber now - with a blast of paint and other volatile components on the aromatics straight away. The spice, honey, apricot and orange flavours follow, but this doesn't seem to be aging too gracefully compared to how it tasted 3 years ago.

2006 Argyle Riesling Minus Five Cryo Cluster (Willamette Valley)
Canned apricots, peaches and banana flavours in a package that's incredibly dense and ripe, almost syrupy with the barely apparent acidity here. (A couple of guys were joking about blending in some of the Clape which was all acid by this point).
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Florida Jim » Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:07 am

Salil,
Regarding the Vatan; your comment " . . . lovely stuff - while this didn't make an impression immediately, I enjoyed this more and more as I kept revisiting it," is about as perfect a description of this wine (and many truly great wines) as I have heard.
FWIW, age is very good to his wines and they develop more punch and complexity over the years.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Rahsaan » Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:19 am

Agree with Jim, but what's this about Vatan being outside your frame of reference for Sauvignon Blanc!! It is classic sauvignon blanc (even with the Chavignol imprint), the way the grape 'should be'! Nothing weird, wild, or un-Sauvignon Blanc about it.

But of course I'm partisan and view New Zealand as a stylistic offshoot, for historical reasons, whereas others might view NZ as the core. We've had these debates before.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Mark S » Fri Apr 09, 2010 1:03 pm

Salil wrote:1984 B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon Olive Hill Estate Vineyards (Sonoma Valley)
Corked. Darn.




Too bad, as I had a little stash of these from the 84 & 85 vintages that were nice cabernets, not over-the-top at all. All consumed, already.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by David M. Bueker » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:01 pm

I'm going to make an admission here, and that's the fact that I really enjoyed the Vatan. My days as an unrepentant Sauvignon Blanc hater are over. Of course I completely disagree that Vatan is "typical" of SB. It's the only one I have ever tasted that had zero trace of grassiness/bell pepper regardless of source.

Of course it's a $50 bottle, so I won't be drinking it often.

My other favorite wines of the evening were the '85 Chave (ethereal perfume), '96Tom Eddy (Salil nailed it), '00 Branaire (supple, lovely armatics again) and '08 Donnhoff (sharp as a knife & long as the cut from a broadsword).
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Mark S » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:33 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Of course it's a $50 bottle, so I won't be drinking it often.


Judging that Edmund is around 80 years old, he won't be making it very often, either.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Florida Jim » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:37 pm

David M. Bueker wrote: It's the only one I have ever tasted that had zero trace of grassiness/bell pepper regardless of source.


David,
If those characteristics are your olnly objection to sauvignon, then I want to suggest the SB's from Bevan and Grey Stack.
I don't believe they are 'typical' either in that they have no grassiness and emphasize a citric/passion fruit/guava kind of profile. I don't think the wines are as refreshing as other sauvignons but they do have their place - one of which is refrigerator cold on a hot afternoon, sans food.
Best, Jim
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Mark S » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:43 pm

Florida Jim wrote:...do have their place - one of which is refrigerator cold on a hot afternoon, sans food.



I thought that's what MUSCADET was for?! :wink:
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by David M. Bueker » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:48 pm

Mark S wrote:
Florida Jim wrote:...do have their place - one of which is refrigerator cold on a hot afternoon, sans food.



I thought that's what MUSCADET was for?! :wink:


No, no, no...Riesling Kabinett.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Mark S » Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:33 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:
Mark S wrote:
Florida Jim wrote:...do have their place - one of which is refrigerator cold on a hot afternoon, sans food.



I thought that's what MUSCADET was for?! :wink:


No, no, no...Riesling Kabinett.



Like I said earlier: incorrigible. :P
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Rahsaan » Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:43 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Of course I completely disagree that Vatan is "typical" of SB. It's the only one I have ever tasted that had zero trace of grassiness/bell pepper regardless of source..


Well it's not 'typical' in the sense that it is better than most examples of SB. So if you want to take that route then most wines we drink here are not 'typical'.

But for me it is 'typical' in the sense that as soon as I put my nose in the glass I can only think of Loire Sauvignon Blanc and it is such a perfect expression of the racy herbal stony mineral goodness that the best SB produces. Unlike some other versions of SB which may be delicious but not necessarily easily identifiable as SB. For me, Vatan it is more 'classic' than Cotat or Dagueneau, the other 'big name' Loire producers.

And saying grassiness/bell pepper is 'typical' of SB is like saying bell pepper is typical of Cabernet Franc or weediness is typical of Pinot Noir. Sure it may be true for most versions, but not the ones we care about!

That said, I am rarely excited enough by any SB to actually make a purchase.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by David M. Bueker » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:29 pm

Well considering that the Vatan was a completely unique experience for me I guess I will have to respectfully disagree! :mrgreen:
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Lou Kessler » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:45 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Well considering that the Vatan was a completely unique experience for me I guess I will have to respectfully disagree! :mrgreen:

It was your imagination how the Vatan tasted, we don't need even one more Vatan consumer. I'm trying to help keep the prices down.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Rahsaan » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:53 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Well considering that the Vatan was a completely unique experience for me I guess I will have to respectfully disagree! :mrgreen:


I can sort of see what you're saying. Vatan is unique. But I don't find them pushing the boundaries of SB with ripeness or skin contact or wood, the way some other people might change our conception of the grape. For me Vatan is the perfect essence of SB/Sancerre.

But, I guess we all put our own words on the wine!
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Rahsaan » Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:02 pm

Probably just restating my point here, but if you go into a French supermarket and taste all the basic/boring/bad Loire sauvignon blanc, something like Vatan would be in the same basic mold (crisp, verdant, mineral) but only with much more profundity and complexity.

In comparison, things like Cotat (often losing AOC for residual sugar), Dagueneau, Riffault, Puzelat's Buisson Pouilleux, these would stand out as 'different'.

Vatan is only 'different' because it's so damned good!
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Dale Williams » Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:32 pm

Rahsaan wrote:In comparison, things like Cotat (often losing AOC for residual sugar)!


Really? Tell me more.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Rahsaan » Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:30 pm

Dale Williams wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:In comparison, things like Cotat (often losing AOC for residual sugar)!


Really? Tell me more.


Some years the Cotat wines have been Vin de Table because they were considered 'atypical' for the AOC. Perhaps some that you own? I don't know all the details but I remember hearing that residual sugar was one reason.

Of course they have enough of a name that I don't think it has hurt their sales!
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Dale Williams » Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:54 am

I know Francois Cotat lost AOC one year (1998?), didn't know it happened often. All of my Cotats (F or P) have Sancerre, but I have nothing older than 2001 -mostly some assorted 04 and 07.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Rahsaan » Sat Apr 10, 2010 10:09 am

Dale Williams wrote:I know Francois Cotat lost AOC one year (1998?), didn't know it happened often. All of my Cotats (F or P) have Sancerre, but I have nothing older than 2001 -mostly some assorted 04 and 07.


I don't know how often it has happened to Cotat but I don't think it has ever happened to Vatan.
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Re: WTN: Dinner at Dish

by Redwinger » Mon Apr 12, 2010 7:33 am

Salil-
Tom Eddy is consistently very good Cali-Cab. I still have about a case of various vintages, including one 1996, in the cellar. Back in the 1990's, Tom gave some serious silly deals to mailing list customers who had been with him since his early days.
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