2009: Best Bordeaux vintage ever?

Over the weekend the BBC World Service ran an item about the March en primeur tastings in Bordeaux. Apparently many critics (they didn't name names) are hailing this as the best Bordeaux vintage ever. The BBC interviewed Jancis Robinson, who said it is a great vintage but stopped short of calling it the best of all time. She said that the wines have a lot of delicious, ripe fruit but also the tannins to age well. This corroborates the reviews that Alex posted.

So who is calling this the best vintage of all time?

The Bordeaux annual hype machine appears to be revving up for another 1982 job, but with the Chinese as the target this time rather than the Americans.

-Paul W.

I actually hope this is true. The only time I can bring myself to buy Bdx futures anymore is when I intend to lay some down for a birth year wine. Last time was my niece in 2005 and now I have to do so for a nephew born in 2009. Once buying, I always buy a little extra for me. If not for these little ones, I would never reload Bdx due to price. The last vintage I bought in any significant quantity was 1996. Between the 1996 and 2005 vintages, I purchased less than a case of Bdx to lay down.

It does appear the Panto season has started (oh yes it is, on no it isn't). Lots of opinions available, some vary year by year, others appear more like cheerleaders, whilst there are probably a few hecklers in there as well.

This year I suspect more than the normal amount of speculators, perhaps more than those who buy with the intention of drinking (if it's not already been the case in prior years).

As to the wines, I'm always happy to buy the odd bottle when mature, close to it, or at least physically in the shops. By then the hype will have moved onto the latest vintage and judgement made a little easier.

regards

Ian

I'm sure it's an excellent vintage, but the question is of course pricing. I think there's a good likelihood I sit this one out.
I'd also add in current climate risk management/aversion will play a part in choosing retailers if I do decide to play.

OK guys.

I don't claim to be a guru.

But I have been tasting, tasting and tasting 2009s this past week.

How can ANYONE fall for this vintage of the century hype?

SURE, 2009 is a VERY GOOD VINTAGE, but please, gimme a break.

We've had fine wines in 2000, 2005, and now 2009.

Let's keep a cool head.

2009 Right Bank wines are just fine if you like 'em (over)ripe and strong.
2009 Left Bank wines are another kettle of fish: CS was as ripe as anyone could hope for (a much rarer phenomenon than for Merlot), but with refreshing acidity in many instances to provide a counterpoint.

Yes, let's be enthusiastic about this vintage. But, please, let's not be infatuated with it!

Best vintage ever? I very strongly doubt it...

Best regards,
Alex R.

The best Bordeaux vintage?

It has ALWAYS been the last one for as long as I can remember. With the prediction that the next one would then actually BE the best one; presupposing the prices were already established for the last one, that is.

How can ANYONE fall for this vintage of the century hype?

SURE, 2009 is a VERY GOOD VINTAGE, but please, gimme a break.

Very easily. The bigger the lie, the more people there are to believe it at times.

Helps when you've got lots of marketing behind you and segments of the market that obsess over names and 'great' vintages to collect.

Devils advocate

Let us not forget that the header of this thread is "Best Vintage Ever"?

Pricing is QUITE another issue.

Alex R.

Agreed with Alex. A good vintage, even a very good vintage, and yes, overall even an excellent vintage. But "vintage of the century" or "best Bordeaux vintage ever"? As Norman Mailer would have put it when he wrote the Naked and The Dead and was forbidden to use the word "fuck", no fuggin' way!!!

As to buying en primeur (and curious if Alex agrees with me), my bet is that this will be one of those vintage years that will sell for less when the wines appear on the shelves than in en primeur. Not my idea of a good investment for wine drinkers or wine investors. But then again.........I have (but please don't tell anyone) been wrong in the past.

Best
Rogov

Rogov,

I am mostly in agreement with you.

Keeping in mind that the wines will take many years to reach their peak, I am convinced that buying them, if one has the disposable income and not intending to resell them in a hurry, is a wise investment (talking here of the "name" wines).

My point: whether one has made a wise choice or not is something to look at starting in, let's say, 2020...

Alex R.

As to buying en primeur (and curious if Alex agrees with me), my bet is that this will be one of those vintage years that will sell for less when the wines appear on the shelves than in en primeur. Not my idea of a good investment for wine drinkers or wine investors. But then again.........I have (but please don't tell anyone) been wrong in the past.

But: the point of buying futures, to me at least, is to buy wines one will not be able to buy later on. Pricing is relative, depending on the great divide between hype and reality. The rare wines are the ones that apart from appreciating in price most, at least here in good old Europe aren't usually available unless allocated to a strong buyer. It's a matter of wanting to own those at subscription/release price or not at all unless one is a millionaire auction buyer, that's all.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

[David M. Bueker]

But: the point of buying futures, to me at least, is to buy wines one will not be able to buy later on.

Which is why I will be looking for reasonably priced half bottles for pleasurable, uncomplicated drinking (e.g. d'Aighuile).

Alex,

You've actually tasted the stuff. How would you compare this vintage to 1985? For sheer pleasure, this is my favorite Bordeaux vintage. The wines were delightful when released, never really went into a shell, and continued to give pleasure for more than a decade (alas, I'd drunk up all mine by that point!). I can't ask for more from any vintage.

I wonder how many of the critics who are saying it's the best vintage ever were there when the 1929s where young?

-Paul W.

With Bordeaux it is kind of like New York City. There you can find what ever you want, and pay what ever price you want to pay. Not unlike Bordeaux. Here, thanks 15,000 to 25,000 cases of most classified chateaux, as well as much more Cru Bourgeios, you can find even the best years available 4-5 years after the vintage at reasonable prices. You've got to be willing to accept different labels, if you insist on a particular chateau you will pay the price, but if you can deal with a chateau located a few kilometers from your favorite, rated 91 rather than 92, then you will find a delicious wine at close to or below future prices. I scored on the 2000 Bdx futures, but every other time I have tried, I was confronted with the fact that there was plenty of wine available at prices just as attractive. But Bordeaux is much more than 61 chateaux. Play the game you can afford to play and, if you know how to handle the wines, you will almost always be rewarded with eminently drinkable wine that is the hallmark of Bordeaux. Case in point, last night we had a leg lamb with an '04 Senejac ($17), perfect, and tonight we turned the leftovers into an Irish stew and served with an '02 Lynch Moussas ($23), even better! Both wines bought about 2 years ago. If you need to own labels, you will pay, if you need to own wine, not so much.

Paul,

09 vs 05?
Vintage generalizations are a huge trap.
But, in a nutshell, to answer your question, 05 is more homogeneous and more structured.
09 is more hedonistic, and the wines will be enjoyable both young and old.

Richard,

You make a number of good points. The top 100 or so Bordeaux wines have become luxury brands. Alongside these, yes indeedy, there are wonderuf value wines for, as you say, people who drink wine rather than labels.

All the best,
Alex

What about 1811, 1864, 1870, 1875, 1899, 1900, 1929, 1945 and so on?

BBC standards are free fall. How can they peddle such a fatuous statement as "best...ever" without the ability to make comparisons?

Thanks, Alex, for all your posts about 2009. It certainly sounds a fine Bx vintage but I won't be buying any except lesser growths for early drinking. 2004 was about the last vintage where I bought a Bx for ageing; Pontet Canet, I think.

Hopefully, some of you have seen this from Wine Doctor!

http://www.thewinedoctor.com/tastingsfo ... 2009.shtml

Paul,

09 vs 05?
Vintage generalizations are a huge trap.
But, in a nutshell, to answer your question, 05 is more homogeneous and more structured.
09 is more hedonistic, and the wines will be enjoyable both young and old.

No, Alex, I was asking about 2009 vs. 1985. The initial tasting notes I've read sound rather similar--lots of up front fruit. The 1985s gave pleasure for nearly two decades.

-Paul W.

BBC standards are free fall. How can they peddle such a fatuous statement as "best...ever" without the ability to make comparisons?

In defense of Auntie Beeb, nearly the whole piece was devoted to an interview with Jancis Robinson, who offered a much more tempered assessment and cautioned against early over-optimism. The point was also made that the Chinese market is a big player this time around.

-Paul W.

The 1985s gave pleasure for nearly two decades..

Or longer! We did some 85s recently, not one was tired for my tastes

We've had fine wines in 2000, 2005, and now 2009.

Alex, please, these were all the best vintages of the last QUATERCENTENARY!!!
How dare you besmirch the Bordelais!

09 is more hedonistic, and the wines will be enjoyable both young and old.

Sounds like the '89s...